Friday, November 21, 2014

The "Champagne" of Italy with Berlucchi & Franciacorta

I'm not a huge fan of sparkling wines myself, but I'll still always try them as I will give anything a chance. The reason I don't care for them more is because of the carbon dioxide. I tend to enjoy wines that have softer bubbles. If you are a lover of sparkling wines and in particular champagne than this article is for you. 

Guido Berlucchi winery Lombardy
Berlucchi headquarters
The Lombardy region of Italy located in the north central part of Italy, bordering Switzerland to the north, is known for it's sparkling wines. Two areas of Lombardy are known for their sparkling wines including the Oltrepo Pavese and the Franciacorta areas. Two out of 5 DOCG designations of this wine region in Lombardy are from these areas including the Franciacorta DOCG and the Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico “classic method”. 

According to Wikipedia, Franciacorta DOCG is the only DOCG allowed to not list DOCG on the label at the wineries discretion, so if you don't see it doesn't mean it's not a DOCG. This area is located along Lake Iseo where the soils are morainic, providing good drainage that helps add minerality to the wines of this area.

Berlucchi winery and Azelles vineyard
Azelles vineyard at Berlucchi winery
Today I'm sharing with you a '61 Franciacorta Brut from a producer you must know, Berlucchi. This winery and the parnership between Guido Berlucchi and winemaker, Franco Ziliani, is what drew the world to recognize Italy as becoming a competitor in the world of wines when it comes to sparkling wines. The Berlucchi winery first released what was then known as Pinot di Franciacorta in 1961. What's unique about the sparkling wines of Franciacorta is the method in which they are produced. They are produced using the famous Champagne method known as Methode Champenoise or in Italian as Metodo Classico
Franco Ziliani family
Ziliani family

The Berlucchi '61 Franciacorta Brut is made up of 90% chardonnay and 10% pinot noir. It's crystal clear and a golden yellow. On the nose it was florally with notes of honeysuckle along with some minerality and yeast. On the palate it was dry and medium bodied with a creamy effervescense with a golden apple finish. Perfect celebration wine! Wine-searcher.com lists the average price as $19.
Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut '61

Chardonnay for Franciacorta with Berlucchi Lombardy
Chardonnay grape clusters

Riddling the Franciacorta at Berlucchi winery
Riddling the Franciacorta, known as pupitres
Fun fact: According to Berlucchi's site, after 50 years of history the Berlucchi winery was granted an official Italian postage stamp displaying it's impact on the “Made in Italy” mentality.



The wines of Franciacorta are sure to rival those of France and Champagne so the next time you are considering a bottle of bubbly consider Lombardy and better yet, Franciacorta. 

Most pictures compliments of the Berlucchi winery.



Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Nebbiolo from Gattinara in the Alto Piemonte with Mauro Franchino

Last week we covered Barolo from southern Piedmont, in particular a Barolo from Monforte d'Alba from the Langhe area. Today I'm going to share a wine from northern Piedmont, also known as the Alto Piemonte. This area has been producing wines for years, but has been overlooked  by the wine coming out of southern Piedmont. In northern Piedmont there are a variety of influences including the Alpine climate along with the glacial soil, known as morainic soil, that is full of minerals from the glacial lakes that were formed.

The difference of nebbiolo from the north & south of Piedmont
The nebbiolo wines of the Alto Piemonte differ from nebbiolo of the Langhe and southern Piedmont. They typically will have higher acidity, lower alcohol levels and more minerality due to the morainic soils, which create wines that are leaner. The area of Gattinara received it's DOCG designation in 1990. This area consists of steep slopes and shares similarities with the other nearby DOCG designation of Ghemme. There are some slight differences in the percentages of varietals, alcohol levels and aging. These are some of the best known appellations of northern Piedmont.

2008 Mauro Franchino Gattinara DOCGMauro Franchino has been producing wine in Gattinara in the Vercelli province since 1962 with about 7 acres of land. The 2008 Mauro Franchino Gattinara DOCG was garnet red with slight brick color. It had a very complex and intense nose. The wine had notes of earth, maraschino cherry, violet, roses, and some nutmeg spice. On the palate it was dry, full bodied with firm tannins. The wine was fermented partly in concrete for a couple weeks and then aged for 4 years in oak casks with an additional 6 months in the bottle. By law the Gattinara DOCG requires that these wines age for at least 36 months with at least 12 of those years in oak barrels. 

Which nebbiolo wines do you prefer, northern or southern Piedmont or perhaps another region like the one we are covering next week, Lombardy?


Friday, November 14, 2014

The minerality of Gavi with Coppo winery

The Coppo winery is located n the Piedmont region of Italy within the city of Canelli. The founder of Coppo, Piero Coppo, first started their wine production with sparkling Moscato. As time progressed and the need for drier wines was demanded by the market, Coppo started offering wines such as barbera. The winery has been passed down four generations operated by the 4 grandsons of Piero Coppo and continued on further by Edoardo and Massimiliano. 
Coppo Family
Coppo Family
The family has made many changes over the years through new wine cellars, renovations, investments in equipment and have tried to stay true to the traditions of the winery while also trying to appeal to the broader audience and the demands of the wine world. The winery's philosophy stated on their site is the following “a wine is produced because it is part patrimony of the history of the locals as well as part of the family’s tradition”. This is what I find beautiful about the wines of Italy. There is deep heritage and roots behind the scenes of each wine. It's more than just the wine. It's the story told from hundreds of years and how the wines came to be.
Coppo wine cellar
Coppo Wine Cellar
Coppo vineyards Piedmont
Coppo winery
The wines of Gavi are from the Monferrato area within the Alessandria province of Piedmont. This area is very close to the Liguria wine region known as the Italian Riviera. As you can see from the pictures the soil is made up of pieces of gypsum (a calcium sulfate mineral), calcareous marl and rocky soil, which produces wine with minerality. The soil consists of marine sedimentary, therefore, Gavi is a nice pairing with shellfish and seafood. It's also good with bagna cauda, a piedmont dish which is a sauce consisting of olive oil, anchovies and garlic along with vegetables. 

Soils of Coppo winery
Soils of Coppo winery


















The producer that helped put Gavi on the map, La Scolca, introduced Gavi to the states which set off the popularity. That wine became known as Gavi dei Gavi. Gavi had been a white wine that rivaled being one of the leaders in Italy throughout the 1960's and 1970's until pinot grigio hit the scene and became the star grape.


Gavi became a DOCG in 1998. Gavi is made of the cortese grape native to Piedmont and is typically florally on the nose with white flowers, lemon, honeydew and green apples. On the palate its bone dry and fresh and crisp with citrus and minerality. 

cortese grape that makes up Gavi wines
Cortese grape that makes up Gavi

Coppo produces a variety of grape varietals including barbera, freisa, chardonnay and moscato that are produced around the comune of Canelli except their nebbiolo and gavi wines produced not far outside this area. The “La Rocca” estate is located in Monterotondo where their Gavi has been produced for over twenty years. 

La Rocca vineyard of Coppo winery

2013 Coppo La Rocca Gavi
The 2013 Coppo La Rocca Gavi was straw yellow with a pleasant florally nose the smelled refreshing like peaches, golden apple and sweet almond.  It was dry on the palate and medium in body.  It was moderately crisp and sapid with nice apple on the finish.

Most pictures compliments of the Coppo winery.  Grazie mille!