Where the Towers Meet the Vines: Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano

Vernaccia di San Gimignano was one of my first white wines of Italy that I came to enjoy.  It also was Italy‘s first DOC in 1966 and is still Tuscany’s only white wine with the DOCG designation.  Let’s take a look at this quaint Tuscan town and the Panizzi winery, which is the focus of today’s tasting.  

All About San Gimignano 

I find It's easier to relate to something when you have visited the area from which something originates from.   I have always loved the medieval tower driven, walled town of San Gimignano set in the Siena province of northwest Tuscany.  It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage site with its 14 medieval towers that still remain that were once built by 13th century rival noble families where height ruled.  

It’s such a great town to explore whether you stay over or make it one of your stops while you’re touring the Tuscan countryside.  Just make sure to sit back and have a glass of their Vernaccia di San Gimignano in one of the many cellars open for tasting in the town center or just grab a gelato and take in the daily living of the locals. 

Copyright of Consorzio del Vernaccia di San Gimignano

Here are some of the top sights to visit when making a stop in San Gimignano. 

• Stroll down Via San Matteo and Via San Giovanni making pit stops at the local shops eventually arriving at the center of it all, Piazza della Cisterna. 
• Climb the tallest tower of San Gimignano, Torre Grossa, for sweeping views over the hills of the Val d’Elsa. 
• Take in sunset at Rocca di Montestaffoli with views over the towers and the rest of the countryside. 
• Visit San Gimignano’s main church, Collegiata di San Gimignano, and admire the Renaissance frescoes. 
• Enjoy the local specialties including saffron and wild boar, called cinghiale (my all time favorite).  

The Panizzi Winery 

Founded in 1979 by Giovani Panizzi, he moved to this area to ”discover his best self convinced at the ago of 50 he could reinvent help”, per the winery’s site.  He bought the Santa Marguerite estate on the outskirts of the walls of San Gimignano, occupying only a few hectares.  The vineyards and their olive groves are surrounded by forests, which help to moderate the temperature. 

Giovanni was a visionary and it took him 10 years of experimentation until he released with first wine in 1989, which is the wine I’m sharing with you today, the green label Vernaccia di Sam Gimignano DOCG.  Five years following that harvest he released his Riserva and also came out with Sangiovese wines.  The winery practices organic farming without the use of chemical fertilizers and the vineyards are hand harvested for the best care and selection of grapes.   

In 2005, Giovanni sold off the winery to the Nicolas family where it is run today by Simone whom takes an innovative approaching to winemaking and has added Pinot Noir to the collection of wines produced. 

See a video of the winery for yourself on their site.

The Panizzi Wine 

Today I’m sharing the 2023 Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG which is made up of 95% Vernaccia and 5% Incrocio Manzoni.  The grapes are sourced from 4 of their vineyard sites of 30-year-old vines and re grown on tufaceous, sandy soil with yellow clay.  The wine is vinified and aged on the lees in stainless for 5 months.   

This wine was light-bodied and fresh on the palate with crisp, mouthwatering acidity.  Bright citrus of lemon and grapefruit with some tart green apple.  A slight bitterness on the finish along with some nice minerality ending with nice length.  ABV 13.5%, SRP $18-20.  This wine should be enjoyed within the next 5 years.   

Pairing with Vernaccia di San Gimignano

With the summer nights and a busy schedule now that we are back into football season in my household I wanted something easy on the grill, but flavorful.  In my selection of food pairing with this Vernaccia di San Gimignano I decided to go with some zucchini from our garden, homemade pesto also from our garden and marinated Tuscan chicken.  

The garlic and herb Tuscan marinade I used consisted of extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, garlic and your choice of fresh spices (oregano, rosemany, basil).  Make sure you let it sit overnight if you have the time or at least a couple hours to absorb the flavors.  Every element of this dish paired just right with the crisp, freshness of this Vernaccia di San Gimignano.  A perfect summertime pairing!

The best way to reach San Gimignano 

If you find yourself in Florence, or even Siena, and are looking to explore the Tuscan countryside, San Gimignano can be reached by car, my preferred style for flexibility, within an hours drive on the SR2 (Via Cassia).  If you opt out of renting a car, you can always take the bus from Florence to the town of Poggibonsi, which is about an hour, and then a local bus that is about a 20 minute ride to Porta San Giovanni.  If you’re taking the train from Siena to Poggibonsi it is only about 30 minutes. 

If you find yourself in Tuscany make sure to venture to this enchanting town that rises out of the Tuscan hills and enjoy a glass of Vernaccia di San Gimignano.  You’ll be glad you did! 

 

You can find Vernaccia di San Gimignano wines to sample on your own at Wine.com. I may receive compensation for any wines purchased through the affiliate link in support of Vino Travels. 

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The Perfect Dip: Vin Santo & Cantucci

Vin Santo, translating to “holy wine”, is Tuscany’s beloved dessert wine.  It’s a wine that takes patience throughout its lengthy production and aging process.  It's not completely known as to how this wine got its name.  One assumption is that it was always a wine pressed during Holy Week and another assumption is that it was a wine used for religious purposes.  Regardless of its origin, its unique process and limited production make this a special wine worth seeking out to experience. 

I had been sitting on some wine notes from a Vin Santo I tasted years back from Montefioralle that I apparently had never shared.  Since Vino Travels celebrates its 13th anniversary this month and sadly I’ve never written about Vin Santo in all these years, I figured there is no better time like the present.   

What is Vin Santo? 

Vin Santo is a dessert wines that is traditionally known for its production in Tuscany.  It can be made in a variety of styles from secco (dry) to dolce (sweet), but the latter is what it’s most known for.  It is typically made using Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia grapes.  The Trebbiano lends acidity to these wines while Malvasia lends aromatics and body. 

How is Vin Santo produced? 

It’s very lengthy and interesting process is what makes these wines unique.  Vin Santo is made in a passito style where the grapes are partially dried out, concentrating the sugars and allowing for more complex flavors to be produced.  The late harvested rapes are either dried out on straw mats, called graticci, or are hung for several months following the harvest.   

process of making Vin Santo - copyright of Montefioralle

Once the grapes are dried to the desired level, the rapes are pressed resulting in a small amount of sweet juice.  This juice is placed in small barrels called caratelli where the wine ferments and spends a long maturation time.  Usually the barrels are only filled to about 3/4 of the way to allow for some oxidation of these wines.  One unique feature to this part of the process is what is called the madre, which is a lees culture that is a deposit on the barrels from previous vintages, that initiates the fermentation.  The barrels are then sealed in non-temperature controlled rooms, called vin santaie, where the temperatures can fluctuate.  These wines will age for at least three years resulting in wines with complex flavors.    

Vin Santo is usually deeper in color from a golden color to a deep amber.  The flavors can be intense ranging from dried fruits, nutty, honey, spice, and orange peels with luscious, textured wines with high alcohol.   

Is Vin Santo only produced in Tuscany? 

No, there are other regions that do make different styles of Vin Santo as well, but Tuscany is the prominent region.  Within Tuscany you will will find several designations including Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC, Vin Santo del Chianti DOC, Vin Santo di Carmignano DOC, and Vin Santo di Montepulciano DOC. Although more rare, it can also be produced in a red version from the Sangiovese grape known as Occhio di Pernice, where it is ore pink in color.  Outside of Tuscany, Trentino is another common region producing these wines with the Nosiola grape.  You will also find some also produced in Umbria. 

Montefioralle winery in Greve in Chianti (copyright of Montefioralle)

The Wine - Montefioralle Vin Santo 

I’ve written about the Montefioralle winery some time ago.  It’s a family operated winery by the Sieni family.  They’re located in a small village after its own name, Montefioralle, in the heart of Chianti Classico in Greve in Chianti, a gateway into the Chianti Classico region only about a 30 minute drive south of Florence.  The winery has a small production on less than 10 acres of land. The winery has been practicing organic methods and has been certified since 2019.   

Sieni family - Montefioralle winery (copyright of Montefioralle)

Montefioralle only uses the traditional Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes in the production of their Vin Santo.  The late harvested grapes are hung on wooden canes in ventilated rooms for a couple months before they are sealed in barrels 3/4 filled where they age for 3 years.   

The 2014 Montefioralle Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC is made from 50% Malvasia and 50% Trebbiano.  The grapes are dried for 95 days and spend 3 years in caratelli.  This wine has a limited production of 600 bottles.  This wine was amber/burnt orange in color.  Aromas of dried fruits, raisins.  Full body and luscious in the month with a lot of nuttiness.  ABV 15% 

How is Vin Santo paired? 

Since I didn’t have the time to try my hand at making biscotti, I had to go with a store bought choice of an almond biscotti.  Vin Santo can be used as a welcoming drink or aperitif, but it’s traditional pairing is with smaller Tuscan almond biscotti called cantucci.  Consumers will take the cantucci and dip it into the Vin Santo.  That was my own first personal experience with Vin Santo as well.  It can also be enjoyed with blue cheese. 

In my pairing of the Vin Santo with the almond biscotti is was a sweet combination of richness in the wine and the nuttiness both the Vin Santo and the biscotti.  It actually created a hint of anisette as an after flavor, which was unique considering it was an ingredient in the biscotti. 

What’s your experience with Vin Santo?  Do you love it or not your top choice? 

You can find some options to taste Vin Santo for yourself  on Wine.com.

I may receive compensation for any wines purchased through the affiliate link in support of Vino Travels. 

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*This wine was provided as a sample, but opinions are always my own.

A Classic Tuscan Pairing: Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva with Ribollita

Le Mie Cose Preferite, "my favorite things", is the theme of this month's Italian Food, Wine & Tasting group hosted by Camilla.  The focus this month is to highlight our favorite Italian wines, along with a pairing or travel tale.  Picking a favorite Italian wine is not an easy task for someone like myself.  I honestly have so many favorites!  When my hand is twisted, though, I must turn to one of my favorite grapes, Sangiovese.  This is a grape produced throughout many of Italy's wine regions, mostly central Italy, but it finds its true home in the region of Tuscany.   

 

Sangiovese throughout Italy 

 

With that, Tuscany holds a special place in my heart as it's where I first came to fall in love with the country many moons ago when studying abroad in college.  It was a life-changing experience for me, and although I didn't enjoy wine at that time, I have truly come to appreciate the Sangiovese grape and its many expressions.  Whether it's produced in the heart of Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, southern Tuscany in the Maremma, Umbria or in the Emilia Romagna region.  These are just a few of the many ways I have enjoyed the expressions of this grape. 

 

The Ricasoli Brolio estate 

 

You may recall that I featured this renowned winery, Barone Ricasoli, some years ago, and an earlier vintage of this wine that I’m sharing today.  The Ricasoli family is one of the most historic throughout Italy and the world.  According to wine.com, they are “the fourth oldest family business in the world” and the “oldest winery in Italy” with over 880 years of ownership.  Now that’s some history!   

 

The Ricasoli family is made up of a two-time Prime Minister, Baron Bettino Ricasoli, who also developed the recipe for Chianti back in 1872.  The family also contributed to the unification of Italy and helped defend Florence against Siena.  The family acquired the Brolio estate in Gaiole in 1141 and operates 580 acres of sustainable vineyards.  Today the winery is led by Baron Francesco Ricasoli since 1993.  He is the 32nd owner and president of the winery from within the family. 

 

Wine selection  - Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico

 

Although if I had to pick my favorite expression of Sangiovese it would be in Brunello di Montalcino.  I wasn't quite ready to sit and thoroughly enjoy a bottle of Brunello this week in preparation for this blog, so I chose a 2016 Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG.    The 2016 vintage is made of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.  This wine was rather transparent in color with ruby to garnet coloring on the edges.  There were herbal aromas combined with dried cherries and dried roses.  On the palate, this wine was beautifully well-balanced.  Medium-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and nice cherry flavors on the palate. The elegance of this wine makes it so lovely to drink.  ABV 14%.  

A Tuscan pairing of Ribolitta with Chianti Classico 

 

Since time has been quite short lately and I feel I've been just getting by most days feeding the family, I decided to make the time to pair this wine with a Tuscan classic soup, ribollita.  There is nothing like a good soup when the cold weather hits.  Ribollita is a hearty Tuscan soup with a rather thicker consistency than most.   

 

The name comes from the word rebollire, meaning reboiled.  Ribollita was considered a peasant cuisine during the Middle Ages when reheating leftover vegetable soup with stale bread was a tasty meal.  It's just one of the examples of cucina povera, translating to poor kitchen, that was an inexpensive but easy meal to enjoy for peasant families that utilized simple ingredients. That's one of the things I have always appreciated about the Tuscan cuisine I have experienced from my travels throughout the region. Simple ingredients, but full of flavor.   

 

It was an easy preparation of this dish by sautéing onions, carrots, and celery in extra virgin olive oil until softened.  I added some garlic along with a cup of white wine, a can of whole peeled tomatoes, and 4 cups of vegetable broth.  I let these cook over medium for a bit, breaking up the whole tomatoes.  I then added two cans of cannellini beans, fresh kale, along with some spices to include Italian seasonings, kosher salt, a bay leaf and some parmesan rind.  I let this simmer for at least 30 minutes.  Upon serving a slice of toasty bread and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil will add a nice touch to enjoy.   

Enjoy your piece of Tuscany from your own kitchen! 

Join the rest of our Italian food and wine loving friends as they share some of their favorite Italian wines and pairings.

• Deanna of Wineivore talks about Alta Langa: Italy's Sparkling Wine from Piedmont 
• Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm asks A Favorite Italian Wine? How do I begin to choose? 
• Linda My Full Wine Glass suggests we Follow the orange thread: Biodynamic Pecorino from Abruzzo 
• Camilla of Culinary Cam writes about Two of My Favorite Things: Cucina Povera and a Bottle with My Name on It

You can find a more recent vintage of this wine for $32 on Wine.com to try.  I may receive compensation for any wines purchased through the affiliate link in support of Vino Travels. 

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*This wine was provided as a sample, but opinions are always my own.