Hidden Gems of Emilia-Romagna: The Wines of Poderi dal Nespoli

Let’s start the weekend on an exploration of the wines of the Emilia-Romagna wine region in north central Italy with a focus on the Poderi dal Nespoli winery. Recently I attended a virtual wine tasting led by wine educator, Filippo Bartolotta, and the winemaker of Poderi dal Nespoli, Scipione Giuliani.   Despite the reputation of of its surrounding neighbors, Emilia-Romagna is one of Italy's underappreciated wine regions so lets change that one bottle at a time starting with Poderi dal Nespoli.

All About the Poderi dal Nespoli winery 

The Poderi dal Nespoli winery is tucked into the rolling hills in the Romagna part of the region. Even though Emilia-Romagna is technically one region, they associate as two separate regions. If you’ve traveled throughout Italy you understand that each region has its own wine, cuisines and even dialect so these differences can be noticeable as you journey throughout the country. 

Romagna is about an hour drive north from Florence.   This area is part of the via Emilia, which is an ancient Roman military road dating as far back as 181 BC.  The road travels a few hundred kilometers and borders the Appennine Mountains in the south to the northern lowlands known as the Pianura Padana.   

Poderi dal Nespoli was originally founded in 1929 and is one of the brands owned by the Argea Group, Italy’s largest private group, that also owns Zaccagnini in Abruzzo and Ricossa and Cuvage in Piedmont. 

The White Wines of Poderi dal Nespoli 

The white wines I tasted from Poderi dal Nespoli include their indigenous Albana along with their Chardonnay.  The Albana grape is one that is only found in this region.  The Albana di Romagna DOCG was one of the first white DOCG’s established in 1987.  It can be produced in a number of different styles, but is mostly found in a dry style.  These grapes carry a lot of acidity and are semi-aromatic with notes of citrus, tropical fruits and apricots.   

The 2023 Poderi dal Nespoli Scanade Albana di Romagna DOCG Secco is made from 100% Albana grapes.  It’s a bone dry wine that is fermented 70% in stainless steel and 30% in barrique.  It’s then aged 2 months in barrique with 12 months in the bottle.  This is a new wine for the Poderi dal Nespoli winery that is a project in conjunction with wine expert, Ricardo Cotarella.  The grapes are hand harvested and gently hand selected on a table with care.  This wine was brilliant straw colored.  Light to medium bodied, dry and crisp with notes of lemon pith and a slight bitterness.  The minerality shows up nicely towards the finish.ABV 12%, SRP $35 

The 2023 Poderi dal Nespoli Lostar Forli IGT Chardonnay is fermented 30% in barrique and aged 5 months in barrique with partial malolactic.  Brilliant straw colored.  A hint of vanilla and apple aromas.  Medium-bodied on the palate with notes of apple nicely balanced with acidity. ABV 13%, SRP $39 (not currently available). 

The Red Wines of Poderi dal Nespoli 

Moving on to the red wines we will start with my favorite of the pick. The 2021 Poderi dal Nespoli “Il Nespoli” Romagna DOC Sangiovese Superiore Riserva is made from 100% Sangiovese.  Scipione said that this is their best label of the winery and I would agree.  The wine is fermented in stainless steel and aged 12 months in French oak.  Deeper ruby in color with aromas of dark cherry, blackberries and licorice.  Medium to full-bodied and very smooth and elegant on the palate.  Nicely structured with soft tannin and rich in ripe cherries and a touch of vanilla.  ABV 14.5%, SRP $49 

This next wine they have been making since the early 80’s.  The 2020 Poderi dal Nespoli Borgo dei Guidi Rubicone IGT is a blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards are made from 40-year-old vines.  The wine is vinified in stainless steel and aged 8-10 months in barrique.  Dark fruits of blackberries and plums on the nose.  Full-bodied and structured with dark fruits showing nicely on the palate.  This wine is well balanced.  A touch of oak showing on the finish.  ABV 14%, SRP $45 

The 2022 Poderi dal Nespoli Gualdo Romagna DOC Sangiovese Predappio Biosimbiotico is made from 100% Sangiovese.  It’s vinified and aged in stainless steel at least 10 months.  This is an organic wine from their single vineyard in the Predappio sub zone.  Deeper ruby in color with aromas of black cherry, violet and licorice.  Medium to full-bodied with dark cherries on the palate.  Delicate tannins and good acidity.  ABV 13.5%, SRP $39 

The 2023 Poderi dal Nespoli Prugneto Romagna DOC Sangiovese Superiore is their highest produced wine.  Another single vineyard and organic wine, it is vinified and aged in stainless steel with 30% aged several months in large oak casks.  Ruby colored with aromas of forest fruits.  Dry and full-bodied on the palate showing juicy dark fruits, especially blueberries.  Moderate in tannin and a presence of oak on the finish. ABV 13.5%, SRP $18 

From the richer character of their Sangiovese to the crisp, food friendly whites, Poderi dal Nespoli's wines offer a compelling window into a wine region that rewards the curious drinkers willing to explore.

Importers: A number of these wines are imported by Kindred Vines Import Co along with Grace Imports. These wines were provided as samples, but opinions are always my own.

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The Silver Lining of Bolgheri: The Wines of Tenuta Argentiera

In the heart of southern Tuscany is one of one of Italy and Tuscany’s prestigious wine regions, Bolgheri.  Wine lovers may be most familiar with this territory for the innovate “Super Tuscan” reds that hit the scene in the late 20th century. I was introduced to these wines via a virtual tasting hosted by Argentiera and Studio Cru and led by Argentiera’s winemaker, Nicoló Carrara, whom has been their winemaker wince 2009. 

Nicoló Carrara 

In this article I feature the wines of Argentiera, a winery that takes pride in its distinctive reds made from Bordeaux grapes such as Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.   

Where is Bolgheri? 

Bolgheri sits in the southwestern part of Tuscany covering over 3,700 acres of land.  The area is in the shape of an amphitheater that hugs the Tuscan coastline for 8 miles.  The vineyards slowly slope downwards towards the Tyrrhenian Sea while being backed by hills and surrounded with the biodiversity of the Tuscan forest.  

Argentiera has some of Bolgheri’s highest elevated vineyards in the area reaching up to 650 feet above sea level overlooking the Tuscan Archipelago and Tyrrhenian Sea.  It is here that the grapes receive frequent sea breezes helping with ventilation for the grapes along with reflection off the sea further exposing the grapes to the warmth from the sun.  The diurnal swings in temperature help with the freshness and high acidity in the wines.   

copyright of Argentiera

The wines obtain minerality from the stony, mineral rich soils.  In the lower parts it is more sandy and red due to the sea.  In the higher sections the soils consist of more limestone and clay. 

About Argentiera 

The history of Bolgheri is known for its silver mining during the time of the Etruscans, silver translating to argento in Italian, hence the name of the winery, Argentiera. The estate was founded in 1999 in the town of Castagneto Carducci by Florentine entrepreneurs, the Fratinis.  Originally it was part of the Donoratico estate that belonged to the Florence family, Serristori, whom acquired it in 1512.  

The Argentinera estate consists of 100 acres that is only about one mile from the Tyrrhenian Sea amongst the hills of Donoratico. 

 

Argentiera’s mission is to create wines in the vineyard that demonstrate elegance and freshness and to maintain those expressions throughout the winemaking process.  In 2016 when Stanilaus Turnauer, an Austrian entrepreneur, took over Argentiera, his aim was to respect the heritage and provide an innovative approach to winemaking while giving these wines the international attention they deserve.  It came to life under known Marchese Piero Antinori, one of the Bolgheri DOC’s founders joined with the expertise of agronomist now CEO, Federico Zileri Dal Verme. 

The wines of Argentiera 

These wines I sampled show both power and elegance with a distinct expression of the territory while representing a land and winery backed by a rich history. 

2022 Argentiera Donoratico Bolgheri Rosso DOC is named after the hills of Donoratico nearby and the original villa from the 18th century.  These vineyards are 90% made up of clay.  The wine is polished and an approachable style in comparison to the Bolgheri Superiore.  This wine is made up of 46% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc and is refined in 500 liter oak tonneaux. 

Villa Donoratico

Deep ruby in color with aromas of forest berries with some spice and a hint of licorice.  Full-bodied and dry on the palate with rich, plush darker fruit, but still showing freshness and elegance.  I personally preferred this wine over the Poggio Ai Ginepri for it’s fruit profile and character.  ABV 14.5%, SRP $55. 

The 2022 Argentiera Poggio Ai Ginepri Toscana IGT  is made of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot that are all separately vinified.  These grapes are grown on 30 hectares that are located closest to the ancient coastal round, Aurelia.  There the soils are full of red sands.   

The wine comes from younger vines.  It’s bright ruby in color with aromas of cherries and blackberries.  Medium to full bodied, dry with notes of black currants and blackberries.  ABV 14.5%, SRP $30 

The 2023 Argentiera Scenario Bolgheri Bianco DOC Vermentino is made from 100% Vermentino grown in small vineyards that were planted 6 years ago at the top of the Donoratico hills.  It’s a smaller production for Argentiera with only 3,000 bottles produced annually.  Brilliant straw color in the glass.  Medium bodied that is fresh, displaying citrus and stone fruits along with some nice minerality showing on the palate.  ABV 12.5%  

The flagship wines of Argentinera are the Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore DOC wines.  I was lucky to do a side by side comparison of the 2021 Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore and the 2022 vintage.  Similar in style with my personal preference leaning towards the 2022 vintage, although winemaker Nicolo said that the 2021 vintage was the one of the best for its weather.

With a slight difference on the blends, the 2022 Argentiera Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC is made up of 46% Merlot, 435 Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc.  This wine receives no more than 14 months aging in wood including French barrique, tonneaux and 3000 liter big casks.  It spends 6 months in concrete before the final blend and less than a year in the bottle.  Deep ruby in color with intense fruit aromas of plum, raspberry, blackberry and currant along with some sweet tobacco and spice.  Full-bodied with concentrated black fruits on the palate, nice structure and freshness.  ABV 14%, SRP $150. 

The 2021 Argentiera Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC is a blend of 48% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon jand 7% Cabernet Franc.  Also deep ruby in color with similar aromas to the 2022.  Full-bodied with rich black fruits and a solid tannic backbone and good acidity. A silkiness on the finish along with touch of cedar.  ABV 14.5%, SRP $150 

You can find the wines from Argentiera on Wine.com to try.  I may receive compensation for any wines purchased through the affiliate link in support of Vino Travels.

Importer: Volio Imports 

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 *These wines were provided as samples, but opinions are always my own.

"Stone of the Fairy" with Tenuta Licinia's Sasso di Fata wines

Earlier this year I attended a virtual tasting hosted by Studio Cru and Tenuta Licinia led by owner and winemaker, James Marshall Lockyer.  Tenuta Licinia sits at about 1,180 feet above sea level and  is located at the foothills of the Apennines on the deep fertile hills bordering the Valdichiana near the town of Lucignano in the Arezzo province.

Lucignano - sourced from Wikipedia

Tenuta Licinia came about in an unplanned manner.  James’s grandfathers had made friends with Italians that were living in Brussels where he resided in the 1960s.  In the 70’s his Italian friends invited him to Tuscany and during his trip was asked if he would be interested in restoring one of their old farms.  His grandfather at that time was a lawyer and was tempted so decided to purchase the 3 hectare parcel of land.  The neighbors had informed him that the land that he purchased used to make good wine.  He was doubtful, but his interest in wine, vineyards and subsoils grew throughout his travels in Italy and he saw similarities in what he was discovering in comparison to the land that he had acquired. 

He decided to replant the land with Cabernet Sauvignon because he was Belgium and French so it what he was brought on, plus he was a fan of Burgundian wines.  The soils he was planting on were a yellow galestro soil, that was a type of chalky slate soil.  This particular soil was known for producing fantastic wines in other areas of southern Tuscany. 

James's grandfather eventually acquired another 1.5 hectares next door.  The environment surrounding these vineyards were encompassed by forests and rather isolated without any nearby neighbors.  It's a wild, green environment with much wildlife to include wolves and wild boars.  Even at one point they had some kangaroos that had escaped a nearby farm James shared with us.

Overview of Tenuta Licinia's estate

For the last 15 years James and his grandfather had worked on reinvigorating forgotten vineyards with specific subsoils.  Their first vintage was produced in 2013.  The entire production was destroyed from a freak hailstorm where fish even flew into the vineyard from a nearby lake so they lost everything but 40 bottles that year.  A tough start!

James took over from his grandfather and replanted the vineyards of Sasso di Fata in 2006.  The vines have been certified organic since they were planted and the winery also follows biodynamics in their vineyards.   The style of wine that Tenuta Licinia aims for is what they describe as a “clos style: strong aromatic definitions and intensity as well as strong vineyard-centric mineral properties”.  Their aim is for less extraction and to keep the fruit fresh showing the aromatics and minerals.  

The Wines

We tasted the following wines with James:

·         2019 Sasso di Fata Toscana Rosso IGT

·         2021 Sasso di Fata Toscana Rosso IGT

Let’s take a further look at them.  

Where does the name Sasso di Fata come from?

The field where Sasso di Fata is located is called Meleto, which is a famous name of a winery in Chianti Classico, Castello di Meleto.  Since they couldn't use that name that was being utilized James called the local village historian to see what information he could dig up to help in naming these wines.  The historian had informed him that in the Middle of the Ages there was a sand stone called Sasso di Fata from the area that vaguely has the face of a fairy in it.  Hence the name Sasso di Fata, which translates to stone of the fairies.

The Sasso di Fata wines were the first cru wines for Tenuta Licinia that took 15 years to make in order for them to find the perfect harmony that they were seeking.  That there is a labor of love! Three things for James that identify the Sasso di Fata wines are the floral aromas of rose, the minerality showing saline and graphite notes, and a velvety finish and texture. 

The 2019 Sasso di Fata Toscana Rosso IGT was the first wine labeled and released to the market.  James made this with his grandfather.  His grandfather made 90% of the wine before he became ill with James finishing off the rest.  This wine was considered their “prototype” that showed elements from the various vineyards and the characteristics they were looking for, but without the maximum expressions of the grapes.  They extracted less since they picked early or as James called it "al dente".

The 2019 Sasso di Fata is made from 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot.  A deeper ruby color, this wine has floral aromas of blackberries and cherries with notes of balsamic. A little tight upon opening with some moderate tannins that become more silky on the palate. Black fruits are shown on the palate with a touch of slate. A small production of only 3,000 bottles grown on about 2.5 hectares.

In 2020 James’s grandfather became ill so the next vintage they made was the 2021 Sasso di Fata Toscana Rosso IGT.  James stated that this wine “ is closer to the finished product they are looking for with all the bones” in a harmonious way.  This is considered their flagship wine and comes from about 6-7 acres.  A different blend than the prior, this wine is made up of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot.  James called this an “alternative to the Super Tuscan” wines.  

James expressed that his ideal blend of the Sasso di Fata wines would be 50-55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30-35% Cabernet Franc for the aromatics, with the remaining blend consisting of Merlot.  Unfortunately with the 2021 vintage they lost a lot of their Cabernet Franc grapes.

The 2021 Sasso di Fata was a deep ruby color with highlights of purple.  I loved the floral aromatics on this one as I found it more intense than the 2019 vintage full of juicy blackberries.  Full-bodied with great savory notes on the palate. Firm tannins with a good acid backbone.  

Both wines run about $72-74 SRP.

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*These wines were provided as samples, but opinions are always my own.  Importer: Vera Wines