Antico Colle Rosso and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

This past week I tasted the wine production of two producers that I wanted to share with you over the next couple blogs, Antico Colle and Fabrizio Dionisio. They both originate out of the Tuscany region with one in Montepulciano and the other in Cortona. 

My latest trip to Montepulciano in Tuscany, Italy

Montepulciano is in the province of Siena in Tuscany and is a hilly area where each vineyard site and the quality of wines are determined by it's location and angle to the sun as well as the altitude and climate. I remember years ago when I could travel to Montepulciano and for the most part stop in to many wineries without reservation and at the least taste the wines. If you are visiting the area I strongly recommend seeking out some wineries in advance to set something up as it's much tougher these days and shouldn't be missed. This means though that more people are visiting the area and tasting these wines, which is a great success! The town itself is also fantastic, but bring your walking shoes as its all uphill lined with shops and a great piazza on the top. I'll share with you another time all my pictures and some other places I tasted there.

Piazza Grande in Montepulciano, Tuscany

Antico Colle, meaning ancient hills, is located in Montepulciano on the eastern side in the wine zone known as Gracciano. Three generations of the Frangiosa family have taken part in the wines produced there. They own about 60 acres (25 hectacres) of land at about 300-400 meters above sea level.

I tasted:

• 2012 Antico Colle Chardonnay
• 2012 Antico Colle Toscana Rosso
• 2011 Antico Colle Chianti Colli Senesi
• 2011 Antico Colle Rosso di Montepulciano
• 2011 Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

I enjoyed the Chianti Colli Senesi for more of an every day wine, but my favorite of all the wines were both the 2011 Antico Colli Rosso di Montepulciano D.O.C. and the 2011 Antico Colli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano D.O.C.G. I chose these two because of the quality and characteristics that I appreciated in each wine. The Rosso di Montepulciano could be drunk on its own where the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano would be best paired off with some food. Possibly a braised lamb shank or wild boar, which is a typical Tuscan dish.

Their Rosso di Montepulciano is made up of 95% prugnolo gentile, which is a clone of the sangiovese grape, as well as 5% merlot. The maceration of this wine lasts about 15 days in stainless steels tanks and is then lightly pressed from the vats. It's aged 6 months in French oak casks and then later refined in bottles for 4 months. More ruby red in color it seemed a little musty on the nose combined with cherries and on the palate had a hint of oak with bright cherry. It had a nice elegance to it and the fruit lingered throughout the finish.  (Wine Searcher averages about $12 retail).

The best of all was the Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano that is an award winning wine by the Wine Enthusiast (93/100). It's made up of 100% prugnolo gentile. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel vats, crushed and repassed over with the must. After about a 20 day maceration the wine is lighted pressed off. Its then aged for 24 months in small to medium Slavonian oak casks and later refined for 6 months in the bottle. This is the type of wine that you should decanter. The color of this wine was deeper in color and on the palate showed rich fruit of dried cherries with some slight oak hints, all well-balanced with the acidity and ended with a beautiful lingering finish. (Wine Searcher averages about $19 retail)

Next I'll cover Fabrizio Dionisio from Cortona in Tuscany, one of my favorite towns, and the wines they produce are all Syrah and very tasty! Stay tuned!

Don't miss an Italian wine blog ~ Subscribe

The Canaiolo grape and its relation to Chianti

If you love chianti you should get acquainted with canaiolo. Giovanni Sordi, winemaker at Fattoria Le Bocce in Greve in Chianti, shared with me the following information on this grape. Canaiolo is a grape that has a long standing history in Tuscany. Until the end of the 1700's it was the most cultivated red grape in Chianti. It's native to Tuscany where it's known as canaiolo nero that is added to wine such as chianti to help soften it. There is also canaiolo bianco, also native to the area, that is known as drupeggio in Umbria. 

Much of history mentions that canaiolo was introduced by the Etruscans and the actual name derives from latin, dies caniculares, that indicates the days of the heat wave or the hottest days of the year when this grape changes color to reddish purple. Canaiolo comes from a 5 leafed plant with stocky grape clusters that at times have some small red strains that indicate the presence of anthocyanins. 

 

It's not often you find wines that are 100% canaiolo, but when it is purely vinified with canaiolo it has unique characteristics that resemble a beautiful roundness on the palate, often countered on the finish becoming lightly bitter. The color in the wines with youth are red and slightly mauve that transform to ruby red. The aroma that distinguishes canaiolo is given from the mature fruit reminiscent of black cherry. Giovanni considers this the most elegant of Tuscan wines. 

 

Caniolo is a difficult grape to cultivate because its sensitive to mites and powdery mildew and it's necessary to be cultivated in warm zones and vineyards well exposed to the sun. Due to this difficulty, it has caused the reduction of cultivation of this grape. It's a wine that is difficult to make, but comes from great tradition and emotion. It's a true challenge for the future of Tuscany. 

 

Giovanni wanted to mention a winery that he knows very well that since 1990 had the idea  to take this grape and make it a wine more representative of its true characteristics. Castello di Modanella, which is found near the village of Rapolano Terme in the province of Siena, produces Poggio L'aiole Canaiolo IGT that is made up of 100% canaiolo and demonstrates the lovely characteristics of this wine well.

Have you tried a 100% Canaiolo?

Don't miss an Italian wine blog ~ Subscribe

Wines of Abruzzo: Montepulciano d'Abruzzo & Trebbiano d'Abruzzo

The Abruzzo region of Italy is surrounded by the Corno

Grande on one side, which is the highest peak of the Appennine mountains, and on the other the Adriatic Sea. The Corno Grande is part of the Gran Sasso d'Italia, meaning great rock of Italy, which is the mountain chain in the north west part of Abruzzo. The region is a great a combination of maritime and fresh mountain air with a drier climate. South of the region, in Chieti, the majority of the vineyards in Abruzzo are located here and face a lot of humidity and heat.

Abruzzo wine map ~ Copyright of Federdoc

Abruzzo is one of the top wine production regions in Italy. Much of the production is dominated by cooperatives like Citra with many of them located in the southern part of the region. This region is trying to change its image from being known as bulk producers to smaller wineries specializing in quality. One of the most popular winemakers of this region is Edoardo Valentini, but you will have trouble finding his wine in the states due to an issue with the American authorities back in the 70's. Masciarelli is also another big name of the region where Marina Cvetic has taken over after Gianni Masciarelli passed away in 2008.

There are four provinces in Abruzzo:

• Chieti
• Pescara
• Aquila
• Teramo

The popular DOC's of the Abruzzo region are: Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC and two newer DOC's Controguerra (1996) and Teramane DOC (1995).

The two most popular grapes of this region and the ones that are exported the most are Trebbiano d'Abruzzo (white wine) and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (red wine).

White wines of Abruzzo

Trebbiano is the star of this region when it comes to white wines. You may also be familiar with this grape as it's known as ugni blanc in France. Trebbiano typically has higher acidity with low extract and is aromatic on the nose. It usually is lighter in body and dry. The Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC was created in 1972.

Popular producer of wines in Abruzzo

Red wines of Abruzzo

The rosé wines of this region are some of the heftier rose wines because of the Montepulciano grape that they are produced from, but it depends on the producer and the amount that the skins are macerated with the juice. This rosé is known as Cerasuolo, meaning cherry. It typically shows strawberries and dried cherry along with some spice. This Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo DOC was created in recent years in 2010.

The Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC was created in 1968 and takes up a good part of the region. Don't confuse this grape with that of the town, Montepulciano, which is located in Tuscany and produces the sangiovese grape. This grape is dark in color with low acidity and notes of blackberries and ripe fruit.

Food of Abruzzo

This region being on the coast has fish as their local cuisine, including a popular fish stew, but they are known for their meat including sausage and lamb. In Abruzzo, saffron is the popular spice. Within the last week I featured a food and wine pairing with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.  

Have you been to Abruzzo and what are your favorite food or wines from the region?

Don't miss an Italian wine blog ~ Subscribe