Showing posts with label Lombardy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lombardy. Show all posts

Saturday, May 9, 2026

Bollicine di Primavera: Italy's Finest Sparkling Wines

Italian sparkling wines at one point in time may have been remembered and enjoyed as being something sweet and sparkling to be enjoyed during a celebratory event.  The Prosecco of the past was something fizzy that didn’t maybe spark much interest and don't even get me started on Lambrusco and what that was known for.  Italy’s history of Italian bubbly was nowhere what it is today.The game has changed! 

The many sparkling wines of Italy 

Today, Italian sparkling wines are some of the most exciting wines in the bubbly world of wine.  From the bone dry Franciacortas of Lombardy that rival some of the best champagnes of France, to the variety of Lambrusco from Emilia Romagna, to the prestigious destinations for Prosecco including Asolo and Conegliano Valdobbiadene. Don’t forget about some of the others to include Trento DOC from the Trentino region, Alta Langa from Piedmont, those from the Oltrepo Pavese in Lombardy to name a few.   

In addition what I think has also stepped up the attention of these wines is the use of some of these beverages in the many mixed cocktails.  Italy has always been known for its aperitivo, but new generations are experiencing spritz driven beverages using Italy’s sparkling wines in a variety of ways. 

Italian sparkling wines are increasing in popularity and Prosecco is leading the pack.  In the first half of 2025, Gambero Rossi stated that Italian sparklers, led by Prosecco, are dominating sales for sparkling wines by volume totaling about $1 billion.  They even mention that Prosecco has a slight edge over Champagne in the US market as well with Asolo and Conegliano Valddobiadene showing sustaining growth. 

map of Prosecco appellations
Prosecco wine map copyright of Wine Scholar Guild

The Wines 

I’ve been meaning to share some of these wines for some time so I’m excited about this month’s theme.  Today we’ll take a look into Prosecco in particular highlighting those from the Asolo and Valdobbiandene Conegliano designations and a special treat from the Oltrepo Pavese. 

Oltrepo Pavese Sparkling Wine 

The Oltrepo Pavese is the largest wine appellation in the Lombardy region of northern Italy.  The Oltrepo’s primary grape is Pinot Nero and like today’s wine that I’m sharing, the sparkling wines from here are made using the classic method similar to Champagne known as metodo Classico. 

The wine I'm sharing today comes from La Versa, which was founded in 1905 by Cesare Gustavo Faravelli.  This is a cooperative in La Valle Versa working with around 20 wine growers and farmers.  Sparkling wine production is very important to this winery’s success and their first traditional method sparkling wine that they produced was in 1935.  The winery was later acquired by the Terrie d’Oltrepo Group in 2017 and is now one of the large cooperatives in northern Italy with over 660 members covering 1,200 acres. 

I’m sharing the La Versa” Collezione Metodo Classico Oltrepo Pavese DOCG Brut which is made from 85% Pinot Nero and 15% Chardonnay.  Yes, you read that right, 2007!  This wine shockingly spends close to 11 years on its lees!  With citrus and yeasty notes this wine had citrus on the palate with a slight bitterness, almost citrus pith like, along with a tingly, touch of salinity on the finish.  13%  

 

2007 La Versa” Collezione Metodo Classico Oltrepo Pavese DOCG Brut

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco  

All the Prosecco I’m sharing today are made from 100% Glera grapes, which is the primary grape used in producing Prosecco.  The Conegliano Valdobbiadene appellation of the Veneto is probably the best-known appellation for producing high quality Prosecco.  Not too far north of Venice, about 30 miles, is where you will find this particular territory, and it sits within the Trevino province just south of the Dolomite mountain range.  This is also a UNESCO heritage site, and its steep slopes are quite the site.  As one that experiences it would imagine, these grapes are manually selected and hand harvested.   

I won’t dig too much into Bellenda since this is a winery and wine that I have shared several times here on Vino Travels, although It's a hard wine not to enjoy so I’m including another vintage that I haven’t covered. 

The 2022 Bellenda San Fermo Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut has floral aromas with citrus, apple and pear.  Dry, clean, crisp and refreshing on the palate with lemon citrus and apple notes.  A beautiful mousse with nice salinity on the finish. 11.5% 

2022 Bellenda San Fermo Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut

I also tasted a wine From Vinicolla Tesini also in one of the communes of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene, in Vittorio Veneto.  The owner Davide Tesini, an Italian American, started this winery after finding the family vineyards later in his life as an adult in Vittorio Veneto where his grandparents were from. 

The Vinicollina TesiniVenti22due” Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry.  At the Extra Dry level this wine has about 12-17 grams of residual sugar.  Lemon citrus aromas.  Medium-bodied on the palate, dry and crisp with citrus pith notes along with tart green apple.  Nice sanity mid palate through to the finish with a lengthy finish. 11% 

Vinicollina Tesini ”Venti22due” Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry

Asolo Prosecco 

The Asolo Prosecco appellation became a DOCG in 2009 and set in the Colli Asolani hills between the town of Asolo itself and Cornuda. 

La Gioiosa means “joyous” and takes its name after the name of the Treviso province, Marca Gioiosa et Amorosa, meaning joyous and loving land.  The winery officially started in 1974 when the family established the winery, but the grandfather of current president, Giancarlo Moretti Polegato, purchased the land back in the 1920’s.  The winery today is a large cooperative made up of over 600 farmers with many of them having been working together for decades.  They are a leader in being environmentally friendly using the nearby Piave River as an energy source for their hydroelectric power. 

The 2022 La Gioiosa et Amorosa Millesimato Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry is medium-bodied with a nice airiness to the weight of the wine.  Ripe apple notes with beautiful crispness, fine mousse and salinity towards the finish.  ABV 11% 

2022 La Gioiosa et Amorosa Millesimato Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry
Pairings with Italian sparkling wines 

Many of the wines shared today can be enjoyed in various capacities. They are joyous on their own as an aperitif or as a starter with either a salad or a nice charcuterie of cheeses and cured meats.  They’re a natural accompaniment to seafood dishes or can be paired with vegetable based dishes.  They also can be enjoyed with fresh fruit juice as an apertivo, think aperol spritz or the many various versions created today. 

Join the rest of our Italian sparkling wine writers as they explore the variety throughout Italy

Also, if you’re not familiar between the differences between the charmat and metodo classico methods you can learn more about these two sparkling wine methods used in Italian sparkling wine production. 

I've recently partnered with a company Wandering whom has partnerships with wineries all throughout Italy.  They offer some sparkling wine tours in this region to check out if you find yourself venturing to the land of Prosecco.

You can find many sparkling wines from around Italy on Wine.com to try.  

I may receive compensation for any wines or trips purchased through the affiliate link in support of Vino Travels. 

 

*These wines were provided as samples, but opinions are always my own.


Friday, March 28, 2025

Women's History Month: Featuring Cristina Scarpellini of Tenuta Scerscé in Valtellina

When one thinks of the Nebbiolo grape and wines produced from Nebbiolo what region of Italy immediately comes to mind?  My guess is that most consumers would immediately think of the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy.  What if I told you that the Lombardy region right next door also produces Nebbiolo?   

In continuation of honoring Women’s History Month, I interviewed with Cristina Scarpellini of Tenuta Scerscé whose winery is situated in the Valtellina wine region of northern Lombardy. Cristina works exclusively with Nebbiolo, which is locally known there as Chiavennasca.   

Cristina Scarpellini of Tenuta Scersce
Cristina Scarpellini

Cristina’s winery, Tenuta Scerscé (pronounced “shaer-shay), is set in Lombardy’s northernmost part, Valtellina, bordering SwitzerlandThis landscape is a valley that was carved out by glaciers during the last Ice Age with the Adda River that runs east out to Lake Como.   

Back in 2018 this area was deemed a UNESCO World Heritage SiteThe vineyards in Valtellina are steep and terraced, which are called muretti, meaning little wallsThis dramatic landscape demands the land to be worked by hand, which became an intensive labor of love for CristinaThe winery is named after a traditional 2 pronged pitchfork called a sciarscel which is used for work around the roots and shoots of the vines. 

What’s the difference between Nebbiolo of the Valtellina wine region and Nebbiolo from it’s counterpart in Piedmont?  In Valtellina Nebbiolo tends to be on the lighter side and is less tannicThis is mostly due to the climate being cooler in the Valtellina along with the higher elevationsAlthough these wines lack the power of the neighboring Piedmont region, they display elegance.   

Chiavennasca grape
Chiavennasca grape

Now onto my interview with Cristina Scarpellini.  I hope you enjoy it! 

Tell me about your beginnings in the wine industry. I understand you graduated law at the University of Milan. What brought you to starting Tenuta Scersce?  

Yes, as you mentioned, I graduated in law in Milan after a research thesis in Paris. Then, upon returning to Italy, a series of coincidences in my life allowed the worlds of law and wine to coexist between 2006 and 2007. One of my clients at the time was actually a Valtellina winery. It all started as a joke, never thinking it would turn into the work of a lifetime. I began with one hectare on lease, and I still clearly remember all the details of that vineyard in the Villa di Tirano area. Initially, the project was managed by the winery, which did subcontracting work for me, until my husband and I decided to venture out on our own. This meant starting from scratch and dedicating ourselves to an agricultural activity we had never done before. My husband doesn’t work in the company, but he has always supported me, and to this day, we share a lot.  

Why did you choose Valtellina to establish your winery? Are you originally from Lombardia?  

This land captivated me from the very beginning because of its flagship grape, Nebbiolo, known here as Chiavennasca. And so, here I am. Scerscé was founded in 2008, and today, after nearly 17 years, it enjoys a good reputation among consumers. I was born and raised in Bergamo, a city I love and that reflects me a lot. It’s a land of hard workers and people who never give up.  

What are you most passionate about and what drives you day to day?  

I’m passionate about everything in this work. From the relationship with nature to the relationship with all the people who work with me in the company, who sell my wine, who tell its story, and who know how to value Scerscé every day. It’s a job where you must always stay up-to-date, be on the ball, never take anything for granted, study, gather information, and last but not least, have a lot of patience because nature always decides to do things its own way.  

What were some of the challenges when you first began your winery?  

The real challenge was starting, working with a small piece of land, trying to do things well, and gradually expanding the vineyard area of the company. In a territory like this, which is very fragmented, it is important to be persistent and responsible towards the people who entrust you with the care of their land. In fact, one often ends up purchasing a vineyard only after having worked it for several years because, at the core of the transaction, there is primarily a relationship of trust between the parties. The challenge is not just about starting a business in Valtellina—starting a winery in the last twenty years means rolling up your sleeves, making sacrifices, and being very realistic in both the entrepreneurial and managerial vision.  

Can you share what are some of your challenges you face today over 25 years later?  

The world has changed a lot in the last twenty years. Agricultural businesses today are real companies. It is no longer enough to have an exclusively agricultural approach; a managerial approach is necessary. We are witnessing a very rapid change in international commercial scenarios, and wine as a culture seems to be losing some of its appeal, but wine is culture, deeply embedded in the lives of all of us, especially in Italy. Unfortunately, there is also a high turnover and difficulty in finding both skilled and unskilled labor. This is a territory where almost everything is done by hand. On the terraces, it’s not always possible to access with mechanical equipment, so labor is understood as human power. Certainly, my background in law and the opportunity to travel and study abroad allow me to have broad horizons, to build a long-term vision, a company connected to the world. The legal aspect is also fundamental today for navigating the bureaucratic management of our field, which unfortunately is not lacking—in fact, it is constantly evolving and requires a lot of energy.  

Valtellina vineyards and the muretti
"muretti" in the Valtellina vineyards

I see that you focus on farming your land both organically and sustainably. Can you tell me more about your initiatives in these farming methods?  

We simply don't use herbicides and we follow integrated pest management. This means intervening with a realistic approach, that is, when the plant needs  

it and not in a systemic way. A thorough study of the soil in each vineyard allows us to make the best choices to preserve its biodiversity, which is already very present in our vineyards.  

What is unique about the wines that you produce in the Valtellina wine region? Can you share more about the grapes and the land?  

The wines we produce in Valtellina are unique precisely because they are made in this region. We are located in the mountains with steep slopes, and everything is worked on terraces. Scerscé has terraces that start at an elevation of 400 meters and rise to 700 meters, with significant temperature variations between day and night. In this natural amphitheater between the mountains, the protagonist has always been Nebbiolo, whose biotype is known as Chiavennasca. It is a noble, demanding, and elegant vine that requires a particular environmental and climatic situation, to which the Rhaetian slopes are perfectly suited. 

The Guyot or Sylvoz-trained vines enjoy abundant sunlight, which here ensures the same number of sunlight hours as on Pantelleria—1,900 per year—and warmth, both of which are necessary for the vigorous development of the vines. 

During the winter months, the Rhaetian Alps protect the valley from cold north winds, while the Orobian Alps, with the Adamello, shield it from cold southern winds. The significant temperature range between day and night, which is especially noticeable during the summer months, not only adds depth to the aromas of the grapes but also extends their ripening period. From late spring through the summer, the Breva wind from Lake Como blows, warming and drying the vine leaves, protecting them from diseases. This creates an ideal microclimate that supports the development of the grape clusters and the ripening of the grapes. In our vineyards, all the Nebbiolo Chiavennasca red grapes grow on sandy-loam soil, completely grassed over, with generally low water retention and high permeability. 

The vines are strictly planted according to tradition, and the terraces are connected by stone steps. This requires exclusively manual maintenance, amounting to up to 1,500 hours per hectare per year. We have two important appellations: Valtellina Superiore DOCG and Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG. I manage three sub-zones of Valtellina Superiore: Valgella, Inferno, and Sassella.  

Being a woman in this male dominated industry, what advice would you give to other woman either starting out in this business or even just as woman in the wine industry today?  

I believe that being equipped with a mix of skills helps women a lot in any situation, from reading a contract to be signed with an importer, to writing a letter, to talking with various organizations. Culture is freedom, especially for a woman! Passion is always the starting point, but it’s not enough! It takes a lot, a lot of commitment and even a bit of obsession, in the most positive sense of the word. Great excellence without a touch of obsessiveness is difficult to achieve.  

Do you have any projects on the horizon for Tenuta Scersce?  

For me, it is very important to value every plot, every vineyard; therefore, that is the way forward. Yes, there are new projects, but I can’t reveal them now. You will see them come to fruition in a few years. 

The Valtellina wine region hosts about 40 wine producers that tirelessly work the land to produce wines that demonstrate what is unique about their piece of the Lombardy wine terrain.   

Have you tried wines from Valtellina?  

Once I get over this flu that I have I’ll be updating this article with one of the wines I will be trying from Tenuta Scersce.  


 
*This wine was provided as a sample, but opinions are always my own.