One of my goals this year is to explore
Italian grapes in the US and I've come across a number of wineries
that I'm in contact with to speak with them about their growing
methods and how their soils and climates differ as well as the wines
they produce from those that they originate from in Italy.
Myself with Al Fulchino, owner of Fulchino Vineyards in Hollis, NH
I recently interviewed Al Fulchino, the
owner of a local winery in New Hampshire called, Fulchino Vineyards.
My feature of Fulchino Vineyards was featured this past week on my
column, “Italy Uncorked” in the Bostoniano magazine where you can
get a history of Al's Italian roots and heritage and how he came
about producing wine in NH.
Al grows about 85% of his own grapes on
his land in Hollis, NH, but does import some Italian grapes from
Italy including montepulciano grapes from the central region of
Abruzzo as well as the lagrein grape from the Trentino-Alto Adige
region of northern Italy. Granted, the terroirs along with certain
elements of the actual winemaking and aging process are what make the
wines unique so it's no wonder that US wineries that are
experimenting with indigenous Italian varietals from Italy are making
styles different than what you may be used to. The selection of
specific varietals that these wineries and winemakers choose in
comparison to what they think they are capable of producing to
produce a somewhat “true style” of how that grape is expressed is
what I find intriguing.
Al Fulchino chose lagrein and
montepulciano grapes because these are the grapes that his family
experimented with in making wine. Since lagrein is a grape that
isn't well known in the public eye I asked Al why lagrein in
particular? Outside the reason of his history within his family with
the lagrein grape, overall Al is satisfied with the results of the
wine produced with lagrein in the long term. His biggest issue with
it is that in its youth it lacks the qualities he looks forward to in
the end result. When presenting to customers its difficult to
demonstrate the potential of this grape in the long term.
Al's family originates from Campania
and next Saturday June 6th for our Italian Food, Wine and
Travel group #ItalianFWT we will be featuring Campania this month
with a group of bloggers sharing all their wonderful experiences and
recipes and wines.
Original wine basket for the wine press of Al's grandfather
Make sure to check back next week with a preview
earlier in the week for a sampling of what's to come. You can join
us live on twitter Saturday June 6th at 11am EST and chat
with us. We'd love to hear your story and experiences too!
Taking a break from Italy for a day to feature a winery from my home area. I've been fortunate to have spent most of my life in the
Lakes Region of New Hampshire, specifically Lake Winnipesaukee, since I was
born. My parents have always owned a
home there and we traveled there every weekend from when I was a baby. Till
this day I still frequent this area often year round as its beautiful for all
its seasons in so many ways.
In recent years I started discovering the wineries of New
Hampshire. Earlier this year in February
I was fortunate enough to get a tour of the new winery that was opening nearby
on Main Street in Meredith, Hermit Woods,
prior to their grand opening. Their
original winery began in 2011 in Sanbornton, NH as a partnership between Bob
Manley, Ken Hardcastle and Chuck Lawrence.
Due to the growth of the winery they have relocated to this wonderful establishment
in downtown Meredith, a great edition to the community.
Hermit Woods creates a unique spin on wines by producing drier
style wines with fruits like elderberry, kiwi, apples, blueberries and
rosehips. I must say I was hesitant at
first, as I always am, at going to wineries that are producing “wine” out of
fruit. I have sampled some in the past
and what they are producing is hard for me to call wine. I love when I am proven wrong and can open my
eyes to wineries that are doing something well and Hermit Woods is that place
for these fruit based wines.
I met with Bob and Ken on both of my visits at the pre-opening
as well as my tasting this past weekend.
They have a beautiful tasting room with wine barrels displayed overhead
upon your entrance. There is also an
outside tasting area on the deck that is seasonal. The actual production facilities are located
underneath the tasting room where the wine is stored in temperature controlled
rooms along with 550 gallon tanks. This
expansion and relocation to Meredith has allowed them to increase their
production. In their old establishment
they produced about 1,000 cases annually and now in their new facility they are producing about 2,000 cases with the hope of expanding to 4,000 cases soon.
Ken, Hermit Wood's winemaker, has been making wine since
1996. He has a passion for experimenting
with fruits and other elements like oak and yeasts for the future tailoring of
wines that they will produce. They use
fruits and 100% pure honey from NH, ME, VT and PA.
My recent tasting I sampled wines made from kiwi, apples,
mead, blueberries and peaches. My
favorite wines from the tasting were the 2013 three-honey wine, 2013 heirloom
crabapple wine and the 2013 deep blue.
•
2013 Kiwi
•
2013 Harvest Apple Wine
•
2013 Three-Honey Wine
•
2013 Petite Blueberries
•
2013 Heirloom Crabapple Wine
•
2013 Chuck's Peach Folly
•
2013 Deep Blue
The Three-Honey wine had an aromatic nose along with a silky
texture and elegance to it on the palate with a light touch of honey. This wine
is made from three unfiltered white honeys, also known as spring honey. The wine is produced solely on honey, water
and yeast. It won a gold medal at the
top mead competition, Mazer Cup, in
Boulder, CO.
The second wine I enjoyed was the 2013 Heirloom Crabapple
wine. It's made from the dolgo apple
that in the 1800's was originally used in making cider. This started as an experiment as they first
tried these apples from Bob’s yard. Due
to the feedback and demand for this wine it has grown to be a favorite among
tasters. This wine is made of 95% crabapple and 5% blueberries. I enjoyed the crisp and tartness of this wine. It was like biting into an apple and the
finish was enjoyable as it lingered.
Lastly, the 2013 Deep Blue is made 100% from blueberries
only. The blueberries are grade A tiny
blueberries brought in from Downeast Maine.
It takes about 1 pound of blueberries to make a 375 ml bottle of this
wine. There was a beautiful lusciousness
of this wine. It was like liquid
blueberry pie in a bottle. I'd love to
know how this would taste over pancakes instead of syrup.
The Lakes Region has a lot to offer and making a stop at
Hermit Woods is well worth the visit.
Grab a bottle for a picnic, a gift or just because. A great upcoming event is the Barrel Tasting
Weekend October 4th and 5th from 11am to 5pm at a number
of the wineries in the Lakes Region.
Don't miss it!