You’re in for a treat this month as our Italian Food, Wine
and Travel (#ItalianFWT) group highlights the wines of the Orvieto wine
appellation in Umbria. When I had an
opportunity last year to taste through a number of these wines for a virtual wine
tasting I knew it would be a great theme when deciding themes with the group
for 2022. Luckily, we partnered with the
Consorzio Tutela Vini Orvieto to sample a number of wines across their terroir
to share with you today.
The Area ~ Orvieto
Umbria is a region in central Italy that is just to the east
of Tuscany and is the only landlocked region throughout all of Italy.The town and wine appellation, Orvieto, is
located in the southwestern edge of Umbria bordering the region of Lazio.If you’ve never been to Umbria it’s a
must.It’s known as the green heart of
Italy due to its lush forests and hills.Within these landscapes are black truffle treasures and olive oil
groves.Folks always think to flock to
Tuscany, but with only about 1/3 of the population of Tuscany you can find much
peace among such beauty.
The Etruscans and Umbri were the first to make wines in Orvieto.The Etruscans built this hilltop town with
caves dug out underground through the tufo landscape.If you visit the area you can visit a museum
in town and get to experience these underground caves and ancient
artifacts.The Duomo located in town is
the focal point built in the 14th century of beautiful tufo and travertine
marble.
Tufo
Orvieto wines were famous throughout the Middle Ages and
Renaissance time period.I was shocked
to learn that during the 1930’s the wines of Orvieto were even priced higher
than those of Barbaresco!Unfortunately
the area experienced a 300 year of economic decline.Once the mezzadria was abolished in the 1960s,
the area experienced an influx of people from all over Italy that began to buy
land and establish wine estates.
The climate of Orvieto is continental and there are many
waterways that influence the area including Lago Corbara and Lago Bolsena on
the Lazio side.There is also the 3rd
longest river in Italy, the Tevere, that has many tributaries running off of it
including Paglia that run through the area.
Marine sedimentary clay and sand soils
Shells in the soils of Orvieto
The Orvieto DOC
The Orvieto DOC was established in 1971 and regulates the
wines of the area are made from only white wines.They are red wines and sparkling wines that
exist in Orvieto, but are not allowed to be bottled under the Orvieto DOC.The designated land is mostly within Umbria,
but a small piece crosses over into Lazio.Although, the majority of the wine is made in the historic part of
Orvieto in the Orvieto Classico area.Two
cooperatives dominate the production of the area by 70% with smaller wine
estates on the rise.
The primary grapes that make up the white wines of Orvieto
are Grechetto di Orvieto, Grechetto di Todi and Procanico.Orvieto DOC wines must contain at least 60%
of these grapes.The remaining 40% can
include some of the secondary grapes including Verdello, Drupeggio and Malvasia
along with international grapes including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and
Vermentino.The Orvieto white wines can
vary from dry, off-dry (abboccato), late harvest (amabile and dolce) to muffa
nobile known also as noble rot (dolce).
The Wines
Unfortunately, when it comes to sharing the wines I received
I have to postpone until hopefully next week.I came down with a nasty virus Monday night that left me couch bound for
a couple days and then finished with losing my senses on Friday.Not the best situation for tasting wine. Make
sure to check back in for updates to not miss out.
Join the rest of our writers as they delve into the wines of
Orvieto with some suggested pairings.We’d
love to have you join our live Twitter chat this Saturday at 11am EST at
#ItalianFWT.Hope to see you there!
I want to send a big thank you to Enzo Barbi and Tanya
Morning Star Darling for their collaboration with this event and the wines and
information they have shared with us to share with you. For a look into the Orvieto wines from my prior tasting follow here, "What you need to know about the Wines of the Orvieto DOC" and "Meet the Producers of Orvieto".
*These wines were provided as samples, but opinions are always my own. All pictures are copyright of Tanya Morning Star Darling.
About
a week ago I gave an overall introduction to the wines from Orvieto
including the landscape, grapes and regulations of those produced from
the Orvieto DOC. Today I wanted to feature some of the producers I
sampled from the virtual tasting led by Jo-Ann Ross and hosted by the
Commonwealth Wine School and the Consorzio Tutela Vini di Orvieto. Many
of these producers are key players in the establishment and continued
development of the Orvieto wine industry. They revolutionized
winemaking into the classic Orvieto wines we know today.
As
a reminder the area of the Orvieto DOC spans from the Tuscan border in
the north near Fabro through the Province of Terni crossing a short span
into the Lazio region in the Province of Viterbo. The wines of Orvieto
actually make up 2/3 of the DOC wines produced in Umbria. There is a
large variety from dry to sweet and even sparkling. The majority
featured today are in the dry style including one Muffa
Nobile. All great wines in different styles and complexities whether
more crisp showing more citrus where others showed more florals and
body. All personal preference and style, but I didn’t meet an Orvieto I
didn’t like.
Argillae
Argillae is owned by the Bonello family that is known throughout Italy as one of the top spirits. The name Agillae, is named after argilla
meaning clay. The estate occupies over 640 acres with around 172 acres
under vine, although the winery only produces around 50,000 bottles
annually selecting the best grapes to be used for their bottles while seelling off the rest of the bulk.
The 2019 ArgillaePanata Orvieto Classico DOC is produced based on sustainable practices. It’s mae of 50% Grechetto di Orvieto, 30% Procanico
and 20% Chardonnay. Pale yellow with a tinge of green in the glass. A
very aromatic and grassy nose. Zesty acidity right up front with apple
and lemon pith. An approachable and delightful wine. ABV 13% SRP $18
Cantina Altarocca
A few miles from the city center of Orvieto in Rocca Ripesenais Cantina Altarocca located at the foot of the tuff on volcanic soil with some clay. Owned by the Ceprini
family and part of the Al Molino Gualtieri Estate, the winery also
hosts a resort to stay at. The winery owns about 27 acres of vineyards
producing about 50,000 bottles, which is only half of their potential
choosing only the best for production. As of 2015 Altarocca is growing grapes following organic practices.
The 2018 Cantina AltaroccaAlbaco Classico Superiore DOC is made of 50% Grechetto di Orvieto, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Procanico.
The Chardonnay spends some time in old oak barrels with the rest of the
grapes in stainless steel. This wine was more yellow in color in
comparison to the others. The Chardonnay allowed the wine to be more
round with fruit present including lemon and melon. The wine was well
balanced with a nice finish. 13% ABV SRP $17
Barberani
Luigi Barberani is an important figure when it comes to Orvieto wines. He is one of the first to bottle Muffato. The winery is situated nearby to Lake Corbara
and the 135 acres of vines are grown on soils rich in clay and
sandstone. The climate, including humidity, from the lake help with the
botrytis that these grapes receive to produce the Muffa Nobile wines.
The 2016 BarberaniCalcaiaMuffa Nobile Classico Superiore DOC was the only Muffa Nobile I tasted for this tasting. Made from Grechetto and Trebbiano
Toscano this wine is amber colored with enticing notes of apricot and
honey, balanced and not cloying. Very smooth and without a heavy body
perfect as a dessert wine. ABV 10.5% SRP $68
Views from Orvieto
Cantine Bigi
Part of the Gruppo Italiano vini
portfolio, Cantine Bigi is located on around 336 acres of clay terrain
in the Classico area of Orvieto. Originally situated in a Franciscan
monastery the winery was moved in 1972 to where it is located today in
Ponte Giulio.
The 2018 Bigi VignetoTorricella Classico DOC is
pale yellow in color. I enjoyed the florals of this wine. Very
aromatic with peach notes. On the palette the wine was clean and crisp
up front showing more grass, lemon and grapefruit. ABV 13.5%
La Carraia
The owner, OdoardoGialletti, had been making wine for his hotel business since the 70’s until he partnered up with reknown Riccardo Cotarella and started La Carraia. Today Riccardo serves still as part shareholder and consultant to the winery. Odoardo’s sons, Mauro and Marco, have also joined the business producing about 600,000 bottles on about 125 acres of vineyards.
The 2019 La CarraiaPoggio Calvelli Classico Superiore DOC is made of 50% Grechetto di Todi, 30% Procanico and 20% Chardonnay. This wine wasn’t big on the nose or the palatte,
but the volcanic soil showed on the palette with saline and
minerality. Fresh and easy drinking and a good value at $10 a bottle.
ABV 13%
Decugnanodei Barbi
The
winery was established in 1973 by Claudio Barbi, but wine had been
produced in the area since 1212 from the vineyards of the Church of
Santa Maria in Decugnano
that were using it for Mass and local consumption. Today Claudio is
joined by his son Enzo in the operations. They operate on 74 acres of
vineyards at about 300 meters above sea level on the north side of Lake Corbara. The soils there are mostly sand and clay with fossilized shells. Decugnanodei Barbi is the first to produce the botrytized wines in Orvieto that we spoke about last week known as Muffa
Nobile. They also produce Metodo Classico wines that honor the origins
of the family originally from Brescia, near the amazing sparkling wine
region of Franciacorta.
The 2018 Decugnanodei Barbi Mare Antico Classico Superiore DOC
was a brilliant straw color with floral aromas and green apple. On
the palette was mouth-watering acidity, especially on the finish. It
wakes your palette right up! Rather light on body with a heavier
profile of citrus with grapefruit and hints on almond on the finish.
this wine is made of 50% Grechetto, 20% Vermentino and 10% Procanico, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. ABV 13.5% SRP $18
Etruscan cistern and medival caves of Orvieto at Pozzo della Cava
Palazzone
Palazzone has been owned by the Dubini family since the 60’s. The winery produces about 130,000 bottles on 60 acres of land. The 2019 PalazzoneTerreVineate Classico Superiore DOC is made of 50% Procanico, 30% Grechetto and a blend of 20% Malvasia, Verdello and Drupeggio.
This wine was best defined as the most representative to what the wines
of Orvieto are all about. Medium straw colored that is well-balanced
showing some saline, good acidity with notes of lemon, grapefriut, apple and pineapple. ABV 13% SRP $15
Marchesi Antinori Castello della Sala
The winery is owned by the famous Antino family since 1940. The Castello della
Sala dates back to 1350 and is set at a high elevation on cliffs made
of fossils and clay. The winery has been operated by Renzo cotarella since the early 80’s and is quite large with close to 400 acres.
The 2019 Marchesi Antinori San Giovanni della Sala Classico Superiore DOC is comprised of 50% Grechetto di Orvieto, 25% Procanico,
15% Viognier and 10% Pinot Blanc. A very different blend compared to
some of the others at the tasting. Due to the viognier this wine showed
more florals and seemed to be more lush versus the others. ABV 12.5% SRP $18
Tenuta di Salviano
Tenuta di Salviano is located on the southern part of Lake Corbara. The winery is owned by the famous Incisa della Rocchetta family known for producing Sassicaia.
The winery has been producing Orvieto Classico since 1914 and occupies
almost 5,000 acres with around 173 acres dedicated to vines. It is part
of another winery, Titignano, located on the other side of the lake.
The 2019 Tenuta di Salviano Classico Superiore DOC is grown on both clay and limestone. This wine is made of equal parts 30% Procanico and Grecchetto di Orvieto with the remaining percentage of Verdello
and Sauvignon Blanc. A floral nose showing apple and mostly citrus
with a tangy acidity on the palette. Light-bodied and easy drinking.
ABV 14%SRP $15
Tenuta Le Velette
The
property originally was a church that was later purchased by the Felici
family of Orvieto in 1877 whom ran it as sharecropping property. This
winery has been operated by the Bottai family since 1950 starting with Marcello Bottai and now his children Corrado and Cecilia as well. They occupy over 270 acres of vineyards.
The 2019 Tenuta Le VeletteLunato Classico Superiore DOC is made of 40% Grechetto di Todi and Grechetto di Orvieto, 20% Procanico, 20% Malvasia, 15% Verdello and 5% Drupeggio.
These grapes were grown on volcanic soils and the wine spends some time
on the lees. Straw-colored and bright with a nose of almond and
lemon. Light to medium-bodied, dry with crisp, tangy lemon notes. Very
simple and straightforward. ABV 13% SRP $20
I
was invited to a virtual tasting, led by Jo-Ann Ross, on the wines of
Orvieto sponsored by the Consorzio Tutela Vini di Orvieto and the
Commonwealth Wine School located in Cambridge, MA. I visited Orvieto about 7 years ago days before I got married in Tuscany. I was thrilled
to really dig into this wine region that I just don’t think gets the
attention it deserves. I’m featuring a 2 part series this week. This week I’ll
focus on Orvieto and the Umbria region along with the grapes that make
up Orvieto and the regulations that producers must follow to be part of
the Orvieto DOC. Next week I’ll share some of the wines I tasted and
tell you a little about the varied Orvieto producers.
The Orvieto wine region
Orvieto is town set up high on a hillside made of tufo
in the landlocked region of Umbria in central Italy. The wines of the
Orvieto DOC span both Umbria and the northern part of the Lazio region.
The vineyards are influenced by nearby Lake Corbara and Lake Bolsena as well as the Paglia and Tevere Rivers. This area was once covered by an ancient lake, Tiberino,
that left behind a variety of soils including sedimentary soils made up
on sandstone, clay and sand, alluvial soils and even porous, volcanic
soils. When we think of Italian wines made from volcanic soils you’re
probably not thinking of Central Italy, nevermind Orvieto. This is just one of the many reasons these wines must be explored.
Winemaking in Orvieto dates back to the Etruscan times when the vines were planted off of trees. Around the 3rd century BC
the area was taken over by the Romans. After barbarian invasions and
other takeovers, viticulture took a hit. It wasn’t until the Middle
Ages when viticulture was restablished into daily living by medieval monks. It declined again for centuries until 1860 when it unified under the Kingdom of Italy.
View from Orvieto
The grapes of Orvieto
Orvieto
wines are historically made in an off dry style, but today are most
commonly produced in a dry style. Although, late harvest, known as vendemmiatardiva, and wines that face noble rot, known as muffonobile or muffato, are produced in the area as well.
The Orvieto DOC was established in 1971. The primary grapes that make up the Orvieto DOC wines are Grechetto di Orvieto, Grechetto di Todi and Procanico. The Orvieto DOC does not make a distinction between the two Grechetto grapes and therefore wine producers can leave a general labeling as Grechetto without deciphering between the two. Grechetto di Orvieto is a native grape to Umbria that has mildew resistent skins and is a great selection for producing the Muffa Nobile wines. Grechetto di Todi is the parent grape to Grechetto di Orvieto and is genetically identical to Pignoletto of the Emilia Romagna region in northern Italy. Procanico is a biotype of the Trebbiano Toscano grape and this grape along with the Grechetto
grapes all produce wines with high acidity, which is what I found most
refreshing about these wines and is typically the style I gravitate
towards.
There are also secondary grapes that producers can add including Verdello, Malvasia and Drupeggio
at lesser percentages. You may also see some international grapes used
like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Vermentino. In order to be
labeled as an Orvieto DOC wine the blend must be comprised of a minimum
of 60% Grechetto and/or Procanico
and a maximum of 40% of other authorized grapes previously mentioned.
The wines labeled Orvieto DOC Classico must come entirely from within
the Umbria region and the historical area of Orvieto. Those labeled as
Orvieto DOC Classico Superiore have a higher alcohol level, lower
yields and have at least 5 months of aging.
Visiting Orvieto
I
loved my visit to Orvieto, known as the “green heart of Italy”. It
seems so untouched and serene in comparison to its neighbors. I drove
there and seeing it in the distance set high up on the hill it looked
like quite the journey to get to the top. Even from where I parked it
was a little hike up the street, but I took a nice little break
strolling into one of the local churches to light a few candles as I
always love to do in Italy for my deceased grandparents. It’s easily
accessible also via the train system and they even have a funicular that
can take you right to the top of the town.
I'm always fascinated with Duomos when visiting Italy and the one in Orvieto is beautifully made of limestone and tufo. I had a great time roaming the alleys, checking out the artisan shops and even taking an underground tour of some of the tufo
caves. These caves were dug out by Etruscans in search of water and
discovered to be great areas to make and preserve wine, which some of
the producers still use today.
The
views looking over the rolling hills lined with cypress trees and
medieval towns and villages wasn’t all too shabby either! If the views
weren’t enough to entice you this is a region known for their black
truffles, lentils and my favorite, chocolate!
So
don’t let the marketing and hype of some of the other regions
overshadow places like Umbria and Orvieto. Take a trip and find out for
yourself and discover some of these lesser visited hidden gems.
