The Silver Lining of Bolgheri: The Wines of Tenuta Argentiera

In the heart of southern Tuscany is one of one of Italy and Tuscany’s prestigious wine regions, Bolgheri.  Wine lovers may be most familiar with this territory for the innovate “Super Tuscan” reds that hit the scene in the late 20th century. I was introduced to these wines via a virtual tasting hosted by Argentiera and Studio Cru and led by Argentiera’s winemaker, Nicoló Carrara, whom has been their winemaker wince 2009. 

Nicoló Carrara 

In this article I feature the wines of Argentiera, a winery that takes pride in its distinctive reds made from Bordeaux grapes such as Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.   

Where is Bolgheri? 

Bolgheri sits in the southwestern part of Tuscany covering over 3,700 acres of land.  The area is in the shape of an amphitheater that hugs the Tuscan coastline for 8 miles.  The vineyards slowly slope downwards towards the Tyrrhenian Sea while being backed by hills and surrounded with the biodiversity of the Tuscan forest.  

Argentiera has some of Bolgheri’s highest elevated vineyards in the area reaching up to 650 feet above sea level overlooking the Tuscan Archipelago and Tyrrhenian Sea.  It is here that the grapes receive frequent sea breezes helping with ventilation for the grapes along with reflection off the sea further exposing the grapes to the warmth from the sun.  The diurnal swings in temperature help with the freshness and high acidity in the wines.   

copyright of Argentiera

The wines obtain minerality from the stony, mineral rich soils.  In the lower parts it is more sandy and red due to the sea.  In the higher sections the soils consist of more limestone and clay. 

About Argentiera 

The history of Bolgheri is known for its silver mining during the time of the Etruscans, silver translating to argento in Italian, hence the name of the winery, Argentiera. The estate was founded in 1999 in the town of Castagneto Carducci by Florentine entrepreneurs, the Fratinis.  Originally it was part of the Donoratico estate that belonged to the Florence family, Serristori, whom acquired it in 1512.  

The Argentinera estate consists of 100 acres that is only about one mile from the Tyrrhenian Sea amongst the hills of Donoratico. 

 

Argentiera’s mission is to create wines in the vineyard that demonstrate elegance and freshness and to maintain those expressions throughout the winemaking process.  In 2016 when Stanilaus Turnauer, an Austrian entrepreneur, took over Argentiera, his aim was to respect the heritage and provide an innovative approach to winemaking while giving these wines the international attention they deserve.  It came to life under known Marchese Piero Antinori, one of the Bolgheri DOC’s founders joined with the expertise of agronomist now CEO, Federico Zileri Dal Verme. 

The wines of Argentiera 

These wines I sampled show both power and elegance with a distinct expression of the territory while representing a land and winery backed by a rich history. 

2022 Argentiera Donoratico Bolgheri Rosso DOC is named after the hills of Donoratico nearby and the original villa from the 18th century.  These vineyards are 90% made up of clay.  The wine is polished and an approachable style in comparison to the Bolgheri Superiore.  This wine is made up of 46% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc and is refined in 500 liter oak tonneaux. 

Villa Donoratico

Deep ruby in color with aromas of forest berries with some spice and a hint of licorice.  Full-bodied and dry on the palate with rich, plush darker fruit, but still showing freshness and elegance.  I personally preferred this wine over the Poggio Ai Ginepri for it’s fruit profile and character.  ABV 14.5%, SRP $55. 

The 2022 Argentiera Poggio Ai Ginepri Toscana IGT  is made of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot that are all separately vinified.  These grapes are grown on 30 hectares that are located closest to the ancient coastal round, Aurelia.  There the soils are full of red sands.   

The wine comes from younger vines.  It’s bright ruby in color with aromas of cherries and blackberries.  Medium to full bodied, dry with notes of black currants and blackberries.  ABV 14.5%, SRP $30 

The 2023 Argentiera Scenario Bolgheri Bianco DOC Vermentino is made from 100% Vermentino grown in small vineyards that were planted 6 years ago at the top of the Donoratico hills.  It’s a smaller production for Argentiera with only 3,000 bottles produced annually.  Brilliant straw color in the glass.  Medium bodied that is fresh, displaying citrus and stone fruits along with some nice minerality showing on the palate.  ABV 12.5%  

The flagship wines of Argentinera are the Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore DOC wines.  I was lucky to do a side by side comparison of the 2021 Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore and the 2022 vintage.  Similar in style with my personal preference leaning towards the 2022 vintage, although winemaker Nicolo said that the 2021 vintage was the one of the best for its weather.

With a slight difference on the blends, the 2022 Argentiera Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC is made up of 46% Merlot, 435 Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc.  This wine receives no more than 14 months aging in wood including French barrique, tonneaux and 3000 liter big casks.  It spends 6 months in concrete before the final blend and less than a year in the bottle.  Deep ruby in color with intense fruit aromas of plum, raspberry, blackberry and currant along with some sweet tobacco and spice.  Full-bodied with concentrated black fruits on the palate, nice structure and freshness.  ABV 14%, SRP $150. 

The 2021 Argentiera Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC is a blend of 48% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon jand 7% Cabernet Franc.  Also deep ruby in color with similar aromas to the 2022.  Full-bodied with rich black fruits and a solid tannic backbone and good acidity. A silkiness on the finish along with touch of cedar.  ABV 14.5%, SRP $150 

You can find the wines from Argentiera on Wine.com to try.  I may receive compensation for any wines purchased through the affiliate link in support of Vino Travels.

Importer: Volio Imports 

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 *These wines were provided as samples, but opinions are always my own.

Cantina Vignaioli Wines of the Maremma Paired with Acquacotta

In 2024 I plan to focus on more Italian food and wine pairings that are unique to the region.  This month, I’m highlighting the Maremma wine region, often overshadowed by its neighboring wine regions to the north.  Located in southern Tuscany, the Maremma is a stretch of territory between Pisa and Livorno from the north down to the northern part of the Lazio region.  Let's learn all about the Maremma including some wines from a cooperative, Cantina Vignaioli Scansano, along with a traditional soup called acquacotta.

The Maremma wine region

Although you will find wine produced all throughout the Maremma, its main focal point is the central zone within the Grosseto province.  Maremma stems from Marittima due to its proximity to the sea.  What used to be an area of poverty and swamp lands has become a landscape with an untouched countryside.  From the coast to the inland the land is filled with gentle hills containing sheep, vineyards, olive groves and wheat crop with dotted hilltop villages like Scansano that we're highlighting today.   

The Maremma has the influences of Monte Amiata to its east and the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west. You'll find a Mediterranean climate on its coast with a more continental climate inland.  Areas with higher altitudes face colder winters.

Today I am focusing on the area of Scansano, one of the known places for wine production in the Maremma.  Italy is comprised of a number of cooperatives from north to south that are producing quality wines including today’s feature on Cantina Vignaioli Scansano. 

The winery: Cantina Vignaioli Scansano

Cantina Vignaioli is located near the historic center of Scansano.  Although the coop began from a few  farmers banding together to form the winery, the Etruscans had first realized the potential of this area when they began producing wines there in the 3rd century BC followed by the Romans.  Cantina Cooperativa Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano, the officilal name, started in 1972.  Some years later in 1978, this area was granted the designation Morellino di Scansano DOC.  The winery continued to invest in their quality production and as popularity grew for the wines of Maremma a new bottling plant was built to increase their production along with providing an aging cellar.  

In 2010 the winery focused on sustainability and limiting their environmental impact and carbon footprint.  Over the years they have received a number of certifications to include the Carbon Footprint certification, VIVA Sustainable Wine certification and PEF (Product Environmental Footprint) from the European Union that certifies their efforts and process throughout the entire supply chain.

Today Cantina Vignaioli produces over 5 million bottles with 2.3 million bottles of that production labeled under the upgraded Morellino di Scansano DOCG that took place in 2007.  This represents 20% of the production under the DOCG designation.  The coop is comprised over 170 families and members that represent about 1,730 acres averaging about 7.5 acres per family.

I had the opportunity to connect with Cantina Vignaioli directly and ask them some questions about their wines and territory.  I hope you enjoy!

How does the cooperative best define their wines' quality and uniqueness as it
relates to the characterization of wines from the Maremma?
In our wines, our main focus is on indigenous varieties that are typical of the
Maremma area, starting from Sangiovese and Vermentino, but also including
Ciliegiolo, Ansonica and others. We aim to make neat and pleasant wines,
regardless of the specific label, trying to preserve the features of the wines
during the wine-making process, and limiting the use of oak to selected labels.

What does the winery pride themselves on? Is it special flagship wines or is it
a unique landscape, soils, etc?
As a co-op winery we’ve been working for over 50 years to represent our
vintners and market the wines made from their grapes. We are proud of the
economic and social role we have in our community, making it possible for 170
families to pursue their farming activities while making sure consumers can
enjoy the fine wines that result from this work. While economic and social
responsibility have been part of our DNA right from the start, for 15 years now
our attention has also focused on environmental sustainability, to safeguard our
territory and its community.

How would you best describe the wines of Maremma in comparison to
neighboring wine appellations within Tuscany especially?
Maremma is a very different area compared to other appellations in Tuscany.
The sea is closer, to begin with, and the climate is generally speaking drier and
warmer. The landscape is also more rural. This makes the area perfect for
white grape varieties like Vermentino and Ansonica, which thrive on coastal
areas and has an impact on Sangiovese and Ciliegiolo too, favoring ripe
tannins and round and easy-to-drink wines without the use of oak.

Can you tell me more about the governo all'uso toscano and why you chose to
use this method?
This method was traditionally used by local farmers to ensure they had a
production of wine before Morellino would be ready. We’ve recovered this
technique by dividing the grapes into two batches. One undergoes fermentation
right away while the other is left to whither in crates in a ventilated room for a
few weeks. When the grapes have lost approximately 15% of their weight, they
are pressed and once they reach full fermentation the fermenting batch is
gradually added to the rest. The result is a fruity, round wine that highlights the
features of the grapes.

The wines

My preferred wine of the 3 I tasted from Cantina Vignaioli Scansano was the 2020 Cantina Vignaioli Roggiano Morellino di Scansano DOCG.  Again, it's all about personal preference here, but I enjoyed them all in their own right.  This wine is made of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Alicante and comes from their line that they best feel represents their territory.  The grapes are harvested and preserved with carbonic snow and spend 12 hours in hot macerations.  In controlled temperatures the wine is fermented and spends 7 days on the skins with 4 months aging on the lees in stainless steel and 3 more months in the bottle.  

The wine was ruby colored with a touch of garnet.  A rustic, dusty nose of red cherries and blackberries.  Dry and medium-bodied with a pure, clean expression of Sangiovese.  Cherry notes with elegant tannin.  A wine where all the elements seemed to be in harmony.  ABV 14%. SRP $24

The other wine, the 2021 Cantina Vignaioli Sangiovese "Vin del Fattore" Maremma Toscana DOC, was also based on 95% Sangiovese with 5% of Cieligiolo.  I was intrigued by the term "governo all'uso toscano" found on the label , which as you read earlier was a ancient technique used during vinification where in this wine the Sangiovese grapes withered in refrigeration until they lost 15% of their weight.  The Ciliegioli grapes withered for 4 weeks.  After fermentation the grapes are blended and spend 3 months in stainless steel tanks on the lees.  

Ruby colored with slight purple hues.  Juicy, ripe aromas of ripe blackberries and cherries with baking spices.  Dry and medium-bodied with moderate tannin.  Richer in dark berries on the palette.  ABV 14.5%

The NV Cantina Vignaioli Scansano "San Rabano" Vermentino Maremma Toscana DOC Brut is made of 85% Vermentino and 15% Chardonnay.  The grapes were harvestedd and preserved in carbonic snow.  The Vermentino was fermented in stainless steel and the Chardonnay in barrique.  It was matured on the lees for 6 months and then blended and went through secondary fermentation for 5 months.  It was further refined for 6 months after the beginning of the secondary fermentation.  

This wine was brilliant straw colored with a floral nose of apples and some stone fruit.  Nice crispness on the palate with a touch of sapidity.  Lemon and apple notes.  Good body and the Chardonnay helps add some roundness.  Fine and persistent bubbles throughout.  ABV 12%

Food and wine pairings from the Maremma 

In researching the food of Maremma I stumbled across a hot bread based soup that originated from the Maremma.  With winter upon us in the northeast I always enjoy making a soup once a week if I can.  Acquacotta translates to "cooked water".  This was tradionally a peasant food made from the poor farmers and shepherds that were trying to find ways to utilize their stale bread during their travels.  The main ingredients in this dish historically were water, bread, olive oil, tomatoes, onions or whatever leftovers they had to throw in.  Today folks have added a number of additional ingredients, myself included, to be able to make it a more robust soup to give it more greens.  You will see additional ingredients today to include porcini mushrooms, beans, leafy greens, cheeses, eggs, etc.  

It was a relatively easy soup to prepare and gives you a good daily dose of your vegetables.  Plus, I always find soups so filling so it's great way to eat healthy and stay on track in the new year.  I first started sauteing my onions and garlic in some extra virgin olive oil for about 3-5 minutes.  I then chopped up some carrots and celery to add to the mix cooking further for an additional 5 minutes.  I used Italian peeled tomatoes and cut them up adding salt, pepper and basil to the pot.  I brought these ingredients to a boil and then down to a simmer adding in the escarole and cannellini beans. I saw many recipes with poached eggs on top, which I think would be a delicious to this dish.  

I enjoyed acquacotta with the Cantina Vignaioli Scansano sparkling Vermentino.  Originally I was going to choose their red wines, but decided to save those for some bacon wrapped filets I had planned for later in the week.  Since the soup was relatively light with the vegetables and beans I would say the two went together just fine.  Although, the bites of pecorino I had while sipping on the Vermentino while cooking complemented each other well.  Sometimes you find some delightful treats when you least expect it.  

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*These wines were provided as samples, but opinions are my own.  The importer is Nicola Biscardo Selections.

 

Ligurian Vermentino and Pesto

This month I’m hosting our Italian Food, Wine & Travel group as we travel to the regions of Liguria and Emilia Romagna in northern Italy.  I’ve been fortunate to visit both regions, but unfortunately only Liguria in passing along the highway en route to Monte Carlo.  Although, Liguria has captured the attention of my two little boys since they’re big fans of Disney’s movie, Luca, based in Liguria, so maybe a visit to Liguria is in my future.  Even though Emilia Romagna and Liguria are neighbors, they have a number of differences when it comes to their geography, wines and cuisine.  Today we’ll take a look at Liguria, also known as the Italian Riviera, and its greatest white, Vermentino, along with one of its local specialties, pesto. 

Vermentino grape of Liguria 

The Ligurian landscape is a narrow, crescent shaped, rugged stretch of land in northwestern Italy situated between the Ligurian Sea and the Maritime Alps to the north.  It connects with France to the west and Tuscany to the east with Piedmont, Lombardy and Emilia Romagna bordering to the north.  

It’s a region primarily dominated by white wines with Vermentino leading the way. Two of the most common white grapes of Liguria are Vermentino and Pigato. Although most folks think Vermentino is called Pigato in Liguria, they are actually two clones of the same plant so they do have different characteristics from one another.  

Vermentino is a grape that can be found in several regions throughout Italy from Liguria to Tuscany and most notably, Sardinia.  It’s a lightly colored, thin-skinned grape that produces wines that are mostly light-bodied.  They are refreshing wines with bright acidity and an aromatic floral nose with white flowers.  On the palate these wines display citrus and herbal notes and they tend to have a unique almond finish.  The Vermentino of Liguria also has great minerality or saltiness in the wine due to its proximity to the sea. 

There are two DOCs in Liguria where you can find the Vermentino grape, the Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC on the western side and the Colli di Luni DOC on the eastern side. 

Copyright of Federdoc

 Pesto of Liguria 

Liguria is a region that is abundant in vegetables, herbs and fruits grown along its terraced hillsides.  Due to its proximity to the sea and the Gulf of Genoa, seafood-based dishes are very common.  One of Liguria’s claims to fame and the prime herb of the region is their basil, the main ingredient used in producing pesto. Along with basil, the primary components of pesto from the region include basil, olive oil, pine nuts, garlic and cheese (pecorino or parmigiano).  Pesto originated from the capital and port town of Genoa where it is also known as pesto genovese. 

Pesto stems from the Italian word, pestare, which means to pound.   The best way to mix these components is with a mortar and pestle to keep the components fresh.  I produce pesto regularly throughout the summer with basil from my garden and am guilty of using my food processor to be more efficient when mixing these ingredients.  This method is fine, but make sure to pulse the ingredients and not blend for too long.   

In Liguria pesto can be utilized several ways with the local pasta, trenette, or with lasagne or even minestrone.  This week I utilized my garden to the fullest. I sliced and sauteed some zucchini with cherry tomatoes. Once it was done cooking, I mixed in some homemade pesto, topped it with shrimp and grated some additional pecorino (which I love).  A beautiful summer evening dish!  Although I didn’t specifically have a Ligurian Vermentino on hand to pair with this dish I know it would make a lovely pairing from previous Vermentino I have tasted.   

What’s your favorite summer dish and wine pairing? 

Check out some other Vermentino I have written about in the past  

• Wines on the Island of Sardinia with Vigne Surrau 
•  Sardiniia’s Top white Grapes: Vermentino and Nuragus 
•  Antonella Corda: Mother of the Sardinian Vines 
•  Summertime Calls with this Val delle Rose Vermentino 
•  Vermentino of Toscana with Aia Vecchia
  

My fellow Italian wine and food lovers will be sharing some additional delights from Liguria or Emilia Romagna this weekend so be sure to check them out.

• Wendy from A Day of the Life on the Farm will feature “2 Treats from Emilia-Romagna; Gnocco Frito and Celita Sangiovese".  
•  Andrea at The Quirky Cork will share “A Love Affair with Lambrusco”
•  Camilla over at Culinary Cam will take you “From the Italian Riviera: Animated Sea Monsters, Linguine al Pesto, and Mataóssu"
•  Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles will be "Meditating on the Magic of the Cinque Terre with a Sciacchetrà"
•  Gwendolyn at the Wine Predator shares with us "How You Can Help After Devastating Floods in Emilia-Romagna: Drink Wine Made by Women"
•  Susannah at Avvinare is "Celebrating Summer with Ligurian Gems"

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