Part 2: Meet the Wine Producers from Orvieto

About a week ago I gave an overall introduction to the wines from Orvieto including the landscape, grapes and regulations of those produced from the Orvieto DOC.  Today I wanted to feature some of the producers I sampled from the virtual tasting led by Jo-Ann Ross and hosted by the Commonwealth Wine School and the Consorzio Tutela Vini di Orvieto.  Many of these producers are key players in the establishment and continued development of the Orvieto wine industry.  They revolutionized winemaking into the classic Orvieto wines we know today. 

As a reminder the area of the Orvieto DOC spans from the Tuscan border in the north near Fabro through the Province of Terni crossing a short span into the Lazio region in the Province of Viterbo.  The wines of Orvieto actually make up 2/3 of the DOC wines produced in Umbria.  There is a large variety from dry to sweet and even sparkling.  The majority featured today are in the dry style including one Muffa Nobile.  All great wines in different styles and complexities whether more crisp showing more citrus where others showed more florals and body.  All personal preference and style, but I didn’t meet an Orvieto I didn’t like.   

Argillae 

Argillae is owned by the Bonello family that is known throughout Italy as one of the top spirits.  The name Agillae, is named after argilla meaning clay.  The estate occupies over 640 acres with around 172 acres under vine, although the winery only produces around 50,000 bottles annually selecting the best grapes to be used for their bottles while seelling off the rest of the bulk.   

The 2019 Argillae Panata Orvieto Classico DOC is produced based on sustainable practices.  It’s mae of 50% Grechetto di Orvieto, 30% Procanico and 20% Chardonnay.  Pale yellow with a tinge of green in the glass.  A very aromatic and grassy nose.  Zesty acidity right up front with apple and lemon pith.  An approachable and delightful wine.  ABV 13% SRP $18  

Cantina Altarocca 

A few miles from the city center of Orvieto in Rocca Ripesena is Cantina Altarocca located at the foot of the tuff on volcanic soil with some clay.  Owned by the Ceprini family and part of the Al Molino Gualtieri Estate, the winery also hosts a resort to stay at.  The winery owns about 27 acres of vineyards producing about 50,000 bottles, which is only half of their potential choosing only the best for production.  As of 2015 Altarocca is growing grapes following organic practices. 

The 2018 Cantina Altarocca Albaco Classico Superiore DOC is made of 50% Grechetto di Orvieto, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Procanico.  The Chardonnay spends some time in old oak barrels with the rest of the grapes in stainless steel.  This wine was more yellow in color in comparison to the others.  The Chardonnay allowed the wine to be more round with fruit present including lemon and melon.  The wine was well balanced with a nice finish. 13% ABV SRP $17  

Barberani 

Luigi Barberani is an important figure when it comes to Orvieto wines.  He is one of the first to bottle Muffato.  The winery is situated nearby to Lake Corbara and the 135 acres of vines are grown on soils rich in clay and sandstone.  The climate, including humidity, from the lake help with the botrytis that these grapes receive to produce the Muffa Nobile wines.   

The 2016 Barberani Calcaia Muffa Nobile Classico Superiore DOC was the only Muffa Nobile I tasted for this tasting.  Made from Grechetto and Trebbiano Toscano this wine is amber colored with enticing notes of apricot and honey, balanced and not cloying.  Very smooth and without a heavy body perfect as a dessert wine.  ABV 10.5% SRP $68 

Views from Orvieto

Cantine Bigi 

Part of the Gruppo Italiano vini portfolio, Cantine Bigi is located on around 336 acres of clay terrain in the Classico area of Orvieto.  Originally situated in a Franciscan monastery the winery was moved in 1972 to where it is located today in Ponte Giulio.   

The 2018 Bigi Vigneto Torricella Classico DOC is pale yellow in color.  I enjoyed the florals of this wine.  Very aromatic with peach notes.  On the palette the wine was clean and crisp up front showing more grass, lemon and grapefruit. ABV 13.5%  

La Carraia  

The owner, Odoardo Gialletti, had been making wine for his hotel business since the 70’s until he partnered up with reknown Riccardo Cotarella and started La Carraia.  Today Riccardo serves still as part shareholder and consultant to the winery.  Odoardo’s sons, Mauro and Marco, have also joined the business producing about 600,000 bottles on about 125 acres of vineyards. 

The 2019 La CarraiaPoggio Calvelli Classico Superiore DOC is made of 50% Grechetto di Todi, 30% Procanico and 20% Chardonnay.  This wine wasn’t big on the nose or the palatte, but the volcanic soil showed on the palette with saline and minerality.  Fresh and easy drinking and a good value at $10 a bottle.  ABV 13%  

Decugnano dei Barbi 

The winery was established in 1973 by Claudio Barbi, but wine had been produced in the area since 1212 from the vineyards of the Church of Santa Maria in Decugnano that were using it for Mass and local consumption.  Today Claudio is joined by his son Enzo in the operations.  They operate on 74 acres of vineyards at about 300 meters above sea level on the north side of Lake Corbara.  The soils there are mostly sand and clay with fossilized shells.  Decugnano dei Barbi is the first to produce the botrytized wines in Orvieto that we spoke about last week known as Muffa Nobile.  They also produce Metodo Classico wines that honor the origins of the family originally from Brescia, near the amazing sparkling wine region of Franciacorta. 

The 2018 Decugnano dei Barbi Mare Antico Classico Superiore DOC was a brilliant straw color with floral aromas and green apple.   On the palette was mouth-watering acidity, especially on the finish.  It wakes your palette right up!  Rather light on body with a heavier profile of citrus with grapefruit and hints on almond on the finish.  this wine is made of 50% Grechetto, 20% Vermentino and 10% Procanico, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.   ABV 13.5% SRP $18 

Etruscan cistern and medival caves of Orvieto at Pozzo della Cava

Palazzone 

Palazzone has been owned by the Dubini family since the 60’s.  The winery produces about 130,000 bottles on 60 acres of land.  The 2019 PalazzoneTerre Vineate Classico Superiore DOC is made of 50% Procanico, 30% Grechetto and a blend of 20% Malvasia, Verdello and Drupeggio.  This wine was best defined as the most representative to what the wines of Orvieto are all about.  Medium straw colored that is well-balanced showing some saline, good acidity with notes of lemon, grapefriut, apple and pineapple.   ABV 13% SRP $15 

Marchesi Antinori Castello della Sala 

The winery is owned by the famous Antino family since 1940.  The Castello della Sala dates back to 1350 and is set at a high elevation on cliffs made of fossils and clay.  The winery has been operated by Renzo cotarella since the early 80’s and is quite large with close to 400 acres. 

The 2019 Marchesi Antinori San Giovanni della Sala Classico Superiore DOC is comprised of 50% Grechetto di Orvieto, 25% Procanico, 15% Viognier and 10% Pinot Blanc.  A very different blend compared to some of the others at the tasting.  Due to the viognier this wine showed more florals and seemed to be more lush versus the others.  ABV 12.5% SRP $18 

Tenuta di Salviano 

Tenuta di Salviano is located on the southern part of Lake Corbara.  The winery is owned by the famous Incisa della Rocchetta family known for producing Sassicaia.  The winery has been producing Orvieto Classico since 1914 and occupies almost 5,000 acres with around 173 acres dedicated to vines.  It is part of another winery, Titignano, located on the other side of the lake.   

The 2019 Tenuta di Salviano Classico Superiore DOC is grown on both clay and limestone. This wine is made of equal parts 30% Procanico and Grecchetto di Orvieto with the remaining percentage of Verdello and Sauvignon Blanc.  A floral nose showing apple and mostly citrus with a tangy acidity on the palette.  Light-bodied and easy drinking.  ABV 14%SRP $15  

Tenuta Le Velette  

The property originally was a church that was later purchased by the Felici family of Orvieto in 1877 whom ran it as sharecropping property.  This winery has been operated by the Bottai family since 1950 starting with Marcello Bottai and now his children Corrado and Cecilia as well.  They occupy over 270 acres of vineyards.   

The 2019 Tenuta Le Velette Lunato Classico Superiore DOC is made of 40% Grechetto di Todi and Grechetto di Orvieto, 20% Procanico, 20% Malvasia, 15% Verdello and 5% Drupeggio.  These grapes were grown on volcanic soils and the wine spends some time on the lees.  Straw-colored and bright with a nose of almond and lemon.  Light to medium-bodied, dry with crisp, tangy lemon notes.  Very simple and straightforward.  ABV 13% SRP $20  

Must have been my lucky day visiting Orvieto!

  

*These wines were provided as samples, but opinions are always my own.

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What you need to know about the Wines of the Orvieto DOC

I was invited to a virtual tasting, led by Jo-Ann Ross, on the wines of Orvieto sponsored by the Consorzio Tutela Vini di Orvieto and the Commonwealth Wine School located in Cambridge, MA.  I visited Orvieto about 7 years ago days before I got married in Tuscany.  I was thrilled to really dig into this wine region that I just don’t think gets the attention it deserves.  I’m featuring a 2 part series this week.  This week  I’ll focus on Orvieto and the Umbria region along with the grapes that make up Orvieto and the regulations that producers must follow to be part of the Orvieto DOC.  Next week I’ll share some of the wines I tasted and tell you a little about the varied Orvieto producers.   

The Orvieto wine region 

Orvieto is town set up high on a hillside made of tufo in the landlocked region of Umbria in central Italy.  The wines of the Orvieto DOC span both Umbria and the northern part of the Lazio region.  The vineyards are influenced by nearby Lake Corbara and Lake Bolsena as well as the Paglia and Tevere Rivers.  This area was once covered by an ancient lake, Tiberino, that left behind a variety of soils including sedimentary soils made up on sandstone, clay and sand, alluvial soils and even porous, volcanic soils.  When we think of Italian wines made from volcanic soils you’re probably not thinking of Central Italy, nevermind Orvieto.  This is just one of the many reasons these wines must be explored. 

Winemaking in Orvieto dates back to the Etruscan times when the vines were planted off of trees.  Around the 3rd century BC the area was taken over by the Romans.  After barbarian invasions and other takeovers, viticulture took a hit.  It wasn’t until the Middle Ages when viticulture was restablished into daily living by medieval monks.  It declined again for centuries until 1860 when it unified under the Kingdom of Italy.   

View from Orvieto

The grapes of Orvieto 

Orvieto wines are historically made in an off dry style, but today are most commonly produced in a dry style.  Although, late harvest, known as vendemmia tardiva, and wines that face noble rot, known as muffo nobile or muffato, are produced in the area as well.   

The Orvieto DOC was established in 1971.  The primary grapes that make up the Orvieto DOC wines are Grechetto di Orvieto, Grechetto di Todi and Procanico.  The Orvieto DOC does not make a distinction between the two Grechetto grapes and therefore wine producers can leave a general labeling as Grechetto without deciphering between the two.  Grechetto di Orvieto is a native grape to Umbria that has mildew resistent skins and is a great selection for producing the Muffa Nobile wines.  Grechetto di Todi is the parent grape to Grechetto di Orvieto and is genetically identical to Pignoletto of the Emilia Romagna region in northern Italy.   Procanico is a biotype of the Trebbiano Toscano grape and this grape along with the Grechetto grapes all produce wines with high acidity, which is what I found most refreshing about these wines and is typically the style I gravitate towards.   

There are also secondary grapes that producers can add including Verdello, Malvasia and Drupeggio at lesser percentages.  You may also see some international grapes used like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Vermentino.   In order to be labeled as an Orvieto DOC wine the blend must be comprised of a minimum of 60% Grechetto and/or Procanico and a maximum of 40% of other authorized grapes previously mentioned.    The wines labeled Orvieto DOC Classico must come entirely from within the Umbria region and the historical area of Orvieto.  Those labeled as Orvieto DOC Classico Superiore have a higher alcohol level, lower yields and have at least 5 months of aging.  

Visiting Orvieto 

I loved my visit to Orvieto, known as the “green heart of Italy”.  It seems so untouched and serene in comparison to its neighbors.  I drove there and seeing it in the distance set high up on the hill it looked like quite the journey to get to the top.  Even from where I parked it was a little hike up the street, but I took a nice little break strolling into one of the local churches to light a few candles as I always love to do in Italy for my deceased grandparents.  It’s easily accessible also via the train system and they even have a funicular that can take you right to the top of the town.   

I'm always fascinated with Duomos when visiting Italy and the one in Orvieto is beautifully made of limestone and tufo.  I had a great time roaming the alleys, checking out the artisan shops and even taking an underground tour of some of the tufo caves.  These caves were dug out by Etruscans in search of water and discovered to be great areas to make and preserve wine, which some of the producers still use today. 

The views looking over the rolling hills lined with cypress trees and medieval towns and villages wasn’t all too shabby either!  If the views weren’t enough to entice you this is a region known for their black truffles, lentils and my favorite, chocolate! 

So don’t let the marketing and hype of some of the other regions overshadow places like Umbria and Orvieto.  Take a trip and find out for yourself and discover some of these lesser visited hidden gems.  

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The Wild and Untamed Sangiovese of Tenuta Sassoregale

A month late to the game, but Vino Travels celebrates it’s 8th year blogging mostly about Italian wine.  It’s been quite the journey and I’ve learned so much with still so much more to explore.  Life has been quite the challenge for most over this past year, but if there is anything that is going to help pull us through this crazy world we live in it’s wine!   

I wanted to celebrate by opening one of my nicer bottles, but life has been quite hectic lately so I’m celebrating my blogiversary with my favorite grape, Sangiovese.  This one today hails from Tenuta Sassoregale in the southern part of Tuscany known as the Maremma.  This part of the Tuscan region is one that I really want to dig my teeth into more as I’ve always enjoyed many of the wines I’ve tried from there. 

The winery ~ Tenuta Sassoregale 

Tenuta Sassoregale, founded in 2002, is located in Civitella Paganico of the Grosseto province in the northern part of the Maremma known as the Alta Maremma.  There are 2 other parts including the southern Maremma, known as Maremma Grossetana, and the Maremma Laziale.  It’s located on the southwestern part of Tuscany close to the Tyrrhenian Sea.  The winery looks over the plains that are crossed by the Ombrone river.   

The Maremma is a rugged landscape covered in forests and rolling hills that was once a marshland that got drained in the beginning of the 20th century.  It’s split between the Tuscany region and Lazio in central Italy.  It’s a land full of sunshine, but with it’s proximity to the sea the vineyards receive cooling breezes to tame the summer heat creating a Mediterranean climate.   

Tenuta Sassoregale produces primarily Sangiovese, but also has plots of Merlot, Syrah and Vermentino.  Back in 2019 they became certified organic by Accredia starting with their 2017 vintage.   

The wine 

I purchased the 2018 Tenuta Sassoregale Sangiovese Maremma Toscana DOC.  the Maremma Toscana was originally an IGT that got promoted up to DOC in 2011.  It does cover a large, diverse territory in the Maremma so you will see a range of styles produced under this DOC. 

The Sangiovese grapes are grown in soil that are primarily made of clay.  This wine is aged in small oak for a short time, although I couldn’t locate the length of time.  Showing a bright, transparent ruby color in the glass.  Fresh acidity with cherry flavors, more on the rustic side, with firm tannins. At $15 a bottle it’s a well valued sangiovese that’s approachable while full of flavor. SRP 13.5% 

I love the label on this wine that features the wild boar, one of my favorite dishes when I visit Italy.  In my research I discovered there are over 150,000 wild boar that roam the region.  The winery chose to use this labeling to represent their wines as they feel the wines they are produced with a “wild and untamed soul” similar to the wild boar.  I remember when I got married back in Tuscany at night I would hear in the vineyards the wild boar roaming about.  Little did they know they were going to be on my plate the next night. 

As always I love to hear from my readers and especially during these times when I struggle to find the time to discover new wines while also pushing myself to learn, I love to hear there are folks actually out there following me along on my journey.  What do you like, dislike and and what do you want to read more about?  Please reach out!  Shoot me an email at vinotravels at hotmail dot com.  Grazie and salute to the weekend!

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