From Gorgo's Vineyards: Uncovering the Veneto's Overlooked White Wine Appellation

While many winelovers and visitors to the Veneto are attracted to the wines of Valpolicella, Amarone, Bardolino and even Soave, when visiting that part of the region there is another DOC of this area that doesn’t share the same spotlight that deserves the attention, the Custoza DOC.  Nestled between Verona and Lake Garda, this white wine dominated appellation shows the uniqueness of it’s mineral driven soils and Azienda Agricola Gorgo’s Custoza DOC that I’m sharing today is a great bottle to experience what this area is all about.  

map of Custoza DOC territory - copyright of Consorzio Custoza

The Gorgo Winery

This family owned estates was Founded in 1973 by Roberto and Alberta Bricolo, the Gorgo winery is located in Sommacampagna, nearby to the village of Custoza in the southeastern part of Lake Garda within the Veneto region.  Today Roberto and Alberta’s daughter, Roberta, leads the operations of the winery to carry on her parents dream.  What started as about a 54 acres winery has grown to around 130 acres producing all certified organic wines.

Roberta and Roberto Bricolo - copyright of Az. Agr. Gorgo

The Custoza wine appellation

Gorgo was established two years after the Custoza DOC was established in 1971, which is the appellation that the wine I’m sharing today is from.  This is a white wine dedicated DOC.  The wine must contain a minimum of at least 70% of Bianca Fernanda, the local name for Cortese, Friulano, Garganega and/or Trebbiano Toscano without one of those grapes making up more than 45% of the blend.  

The Custoza DOC territory forms an amphitheater made of morainic soils formed from glacial deposits from the glaciers during the Quarternary Period.  This DOC covers 9 towns across 4,360 acres.  Due to the soils and the Mediterranean climate that is moderated by Lake Garda, these wines are fresh and tend to have floral aromatics with a fruit profile of pears, apples, citrus and tropical fruits that are fresh with a touch of minerality and salinity.

The Wine

The 2021 Gorgo Custoza DOC is part of Gorgo’s Classic line.  It is made certified organic from the Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano and Bianca Fernanda grapes (which is a native clone of the Cortese grape). The grapes are cryomacerated and softly pressed and fermented in stainless steel with the wine on the lees in stainless for 3-4 months until bottled.  The wine was a brilliant straw color with golden highlights.  Fragrant with heavier armor as of petrol and tropical notes. Medium-bodied on the palate with a slight unctuous texture with tropical (pineapple) notes. 12.5% ABV $16 SRP (newer vintages on Wine.com)

Best ways to visit Sommacampagna and the Custoza area

The area of Lake Garda is such a marvelous place to explore and Sommacampagna is an easy jaunt outside of Verona.  It’s even closer than Verona to the closest airport, Valerio Catullo Airport. It’s just an easy 3 miles!  If you’re visiting Verona and looking to venture out from the city you can reach Sommacampagna by car, which is about a 10 miles drive.  If you will not have a vehicle it is also easily accessible from Verona Porta Nuova station via bus, which should take about 30 minutes.  With this close proximity to so many great sights there is no reason not to visit!

Map copyright of Consorzio Custoza

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Importer: Ideal Wine & Spirits

 

 

The Silver Lining of Bolgheri: The Wines of Tenuta Argentiera

In the heart of southern Tuscany is one of one of Italy and Tuscany’s prestigious wine regions, Bolgheri.  Wine lovers may be most familiar with this territory for the innovate “Super Tuscan” reds that hit the scene in the late 20th century. I was introduced to these wines via a virtual tasting hosted by Argentiera and Studio Cru and led by Argentiera’s winemaker, Nicoló Carrara, whom has been their winemaker wince 2009. 

Nicoló Carrara 

In this article I feature the wines of Argentiera, a winery that takes pride in its distinctive reds made from Bordeaux grapes such as Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.   

Where is Bolgheri? 

Bolgheri sits in the southwestern part of Tuscany covering over 3,700 acres of land.  The area is in the shape of an amphitheater that hugs the Tuscan coastline for 8 miles.  The vineyards slowly slope downwards towards the Tyrrhenian Sea while being backed by hills and surrounded with the biodiversity of the Tuscan forest.  

Argentiera has some of Bolgheri’s highest elevated vineyards in the area reaching up to 650 feet above sea level overlooking the Tuscan Archipelago and Tyrrhenian Sea.  It is here that the grapes receive frequent sea breezes helping with ventilation for the grapes along with reflection off the sea further exposing the grapes to the warmth from the sun.  The diurnal swings in temperature help with the freshness and high acidity in the wines.   

The wines obtain minerality from the stony, mineral rich soils.  In the lower parts it is more sandy and red due to the sea.  In the higher sections the soils consist of more limestone and clay. 

About Argentiera 

The history of Bolgheri is known for its silver mining during the time of the Etruscans, silver translating to argento in Italian, hence the name of the winery, Argentiera. The estate was founded in 1999 in the town of Castagneto Carducci by Florentine entrepreneurs, the Fratinis.  Originally it was part of the Donoratico estate that belonged to the Florence family, Serristori, whom acquired it in 1512.  

The Argentinera estate consists of 100 acres that is only about one mile from the Tyrrhenian Sea amongst the hills of Donoratico. 

 

Argentiera’s mission is to create wines in the vineyard that demonstrate elegance and freshness and to maintain those expressions throughout the winemaking process.  In 2016 when Stanilaus Turnauer, an Austrian entrepreneur, took over Argentiera, his aim was to respect the heritage and provide an innovative approach to winemaking while giving these wines the international attention they deserve.  It came to life under known Marchese Piero Antinori, one of the Bolgheri DOC’s founders joined with the expertise of agronomist now CEO, Federico Zileri Dal Verme. 

The wines of Argentiera 

These wines I sampled show both power and elegance with a distinct expression of the territory while representing a land and winery backed by a rich history. 

2022 Argentiera Donoratico Bolgheri Rosso DOC is named after the hills of Donoratico nearby and the original villa from the 18th century.  These vineyards are 90% made up of clay.  The wine is polished and an approachable style in comparison to the Bolgheri Superiore.  This wine is made up of 46% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc and is refined in 500 liter oak tonneaux. 

Villa Donoratico

Deep ruby in color with aromas of forest berries with some spice and a hint of licorice.  Full-bodied and dry on the palate with rich, plush darker fruit, but still showing freshness and elegance.  I personally preferred this wine over the Poggio Ai Ginepri for it’s fruit profile and character.  ABV 14.5%, SRP $55. 

The 2022 Argentiera Poggio Ai Ginepri Toscana IGT  is made of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot that are all separately vinified.  These grapes are grown on 30 hectares that are located closest to the ancient coastal round, Aurelia.  There the soils are full of red sands.   

The wine comes from younger vines.  It’s bright ruby in color with aromas of cherries and blackberries.  Medium to full bodied, dry with notes of black currants and blackberries.  ABV 14.5%, SRP $30 

The 2023 Argentiera Scenario Bolgheri Bianco DOC Vermentino is made from 100% Vermentino grown in small vineyards that were planted 6 years ago at the top of the Donoratico hills.  It’s a smaller production for Argentiera with only 3,000 bottles produced annually.  Brilliant straw color in the glass.  Medium bodied that is fresh, displaying citrus and stone fruits along with some nice minerality showing on the palate.  ABV 12.5%  

The flagship wines of Argentinera are the Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore DOC wines.  I was lucky to do a side by side comparison of the 2021 Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore and the 2022 vintage.  Similar in style with my personal preference leaning towards the 2022 vintage, although winemaker Nicolo said that the 2021 vintage was the one of the best for its weather.

With a slight difference on the blends, the 2022 Argentiera Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC is made up of 46% Merlot, 435 Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc.  This wine receives no more than 14 months aging in wood including French barrique, tonneaux and 3000 liter big casks.  It spends 6 months in concrete before the final blend and less than a year in the bottle.  Deep ruby in color with intense fruit aromas of plum, raspberry, blackberry and currant along with some sweet tobacco and spice.  Full-bodied with concentrated black fruits on the palate, nice structure and freshness.  ABV 14%, SRP $150. 

The 2021 Argentiera Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC is a blend of 48% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon jand 7% Cabernet Franc.  Also deep ruby in color with similar aromas to the 2022.  Full-bodied with rich black fruits and a solid tannic backbone and good acidity. A silkiness on the finish along with touch of cedar.  ABV 14.5%, SRP $150 

You can find the wines from Argentiera on Wine.com to try.  I may receive compensation for any wines purchased through the affiliate link in support of Vino Travels.

Importer: Volio Imports 

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Donnachiara Fiano di Avellino: The Perfect Italian Campanian White Wine

Campania is one of Italy’s rich historic wine regions located in southern Italy and is home to some of Italy’s greatest wines from native grapes including Aglianico, Greco di Tufo and Fiano.  Most tourists will travel to the coastal side of Campania including the Amalfi Coast, Naples and Mt. Vesuvius.  Although if you branch out and head inland you will find the province of Avellino and today’s feature on the Donnachiara winery and the native grape, Fiano.   

Winemaking in Avellino 

Winemaking has existed in Campania since the Greeks planted vineyards there over 2,500 years ago.  Avellino is an inland, mountainous area that is situated about 1 hour east of Napoli that grows ancient grape varieties on volcanic soils, that are rich in minerals which lend structure and depth to the wines. The wine territory spans from the Tyrrhenian Sea to the Apennines with the coast featuring Mediterranean climates and the more inland provinces, such as Avellino, having cooler climates with higher elevations. The grapes experience diurnal shifts, which is well suited to the white grapes of this area providing freshness and bright acidity to the wines.   

Copyright of Consorzio Irpinia Vini

Some of the top wineries of Avellino 

There are many great wineries of Avellino to include the historic producer Mastroberardino, who helped revive the native grapes of the area post WWII.  Feudi di San Gregorio, Villa Raiano and Tenuta Cavalier Pepe are additional wineries to consider along with today’s feature, Donnachiara, whom I’ve highlighted several times over the years.  Donnachiara winery is a female led winery since 2005 and is currently owned and managed today by Ilaria Petito. 

The Fiano grape 

Fiano is an ancient grape that is about 2,000 years old that faced extinction during phylloxera.  The grape’s best expression is found specifically in the territory of Avellino where it is labeled as the Fiano di Avellino DOCG if it meets the regulations to be labeled as so.  The wines are made from a minimum of 85% Fiano grapes with up to 15% Greco, Coda di Volpe Bianca and Trebbiano Toscano. 

Fiano grapes - copyright of Consorzio Vini Irpinia 

Fiano is a mid to late ripening grape that is an aromatic, floral grape that shows nice purity of fruit with elegance and structure. It has a medium to full body wine showing tropical fruits, citrus, pear, apple and some possible almond, hazelnut or honeyed notes. 

The Wine 

The 2019 Donnachiara Fiano di Avellino DOCG was straw colored and quite flavorful with lush tropical and tangerine notes on the palate.  This wine is fuller bodied, well-balanced with a richer mouthfeel and slight tanginess.  These wines can be enjoyed within 3-5 years, but as these wines age they take on a nutty character and richer texture. 

You can find many Donnachiara and a variety of Fiano wines on Wine.com to try.  I may receive compensation for any wines purchased through the affiliate link in support of Vino Travels.

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