Before the end of the year I wanted to highlight the
Lombardy wine region and share a wine dinner I
attended a couple months back in Boston sponsored by the Oltrepo Pavese
Consorzio and wine friend Susannah of Vigneto Communications. You may remember me highlighting some wines
from the Oltrepo in Lombardy awhile back, which I will also rehighlight at the
bottom of this article. It was a
splendid evening in the North End of Boston, the Italian section of Boston, at
Forcella with great food and wine pairings, great conversation and a reminder
of interesting and diverse this region really is.
Susannah (Vigneto Communicatiaons), myself, Carlo (Consorzio), David (Cooking Chat) and Alison (Artisan Wine Group)
The Oltrepo Pavese, pronounced ol-tray-po pah-vay-say, sits
in the southern part of the Lombardy about 25 miles outside of Milan. It’s
uniquely shaped within Lombardy looking like a cluster of grapes. The vineyards cover 32,000 acres across 7 denominations
with the flagship DOCG, and only DOCG, being the Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico
Pinot Nero DOCG. The Oltrepo receives a Mediterranean climate
from the nearby influence of the Ligurian Sea and has more of a continental
climate with the Po Valley. Due to these
factors, and others, there is a large diversity in the styles of wines produced
in the Oltrepo.
Whether you have heard of the Oltrepo or not you may be
surprised to learn that this wine area actually accounts for 65% of the wine
production within Lombardy. So much of
the Oltrepo has changed over the years.
In 1884 the Oltrepo had 224 native vines with 59 grapes. Today this area has 10 native vines with a
much more limited amount of grapes. It’s
primary grapes grown and what it is known for are Barbara, Riseling, Croatina
and especially Pinot Nero. The Oltrepo
Pavese is actually 3rd in the world, besides Champagne and Burgundy
France, for the production of their Pinot Noir.
Other grapes also produced within the Oltrepo Pavese include Uva Rara,
Pinot Bianco, Cortese Bianco, Vespolina, Moscato, Pinot Grigio, Malvasia and
Mueller Thurgau.
There are 4 valleys in the Oltrepo from west to east
including Valle Straffora, Valle Coppa, Valle Scuropasso and Valle Versa. Pinot Nero is frequently grown in the Valle
Scuropasso. Barbera you will find mostly
within Valle Straffora and Valle Coppa.
Riesling does well in the calcareous soils of Valle Coppa. Croatina is found in the central valleys
eastward.
We opened
the evening with the lovely Ca’ di Frara T4 Brut Nature. The 2022 Bruno Verdi Pinot Grigio was
surprising as I never would’ve pinned that wine if tasted blind, although I’m
far from an expert. The texture and
fruit profile in the wine reminded me of a Riesling.
Although I didn’t take specific notes on these wines during
my dinner with the Consorzio I have to say that some of the pairings that we
had complemented one another very well.The
star pairing was the La Travaglina Rugiade Oltrepo Pavese Riesling DOC paired
with a cacio e pepe dish.
Also, the
Castello di Luzzano Sommossa Bonarda Frizzante with the pasta Bolognese surprisingly
paired nicely with a slight frizzante.
Have you enjoyed wines from the Oltrepo?
Here are some of my previous articles on other wines of the Oltrepo Pavese.
After a couple week hiatus due to wonderful family vacation
on a Disney cruise of the western Caribbean, I'm ready to share a recent
tasting I had a couple months back including sparkling wines from Borgo
Maragliano.This winery is located in
the sparkling wine area of Piedmont in northwestern Italy known as the Alta Langa. They are based in Loazzolo, close to Asti.We tasted through 6 sparkling winesmostly based on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and
one from the Riesling grape.Let's
explore!
The winery – Borgo Maragliano
The husband and wife owners, Carlo and Silvia Galliano, run Borgo
Maragliano along with 2 of their 3 sons. Carlo is also the winemaker and his wife handles the hospitality portion
of their business.They own about 108
acres in the Alta Langa, which is close to the seaside and therefore has the
Ligurian Sea influence and winds over their vineyards.The winery is situated at about 1,475 feet on
steep Langhe hills with the vineyards at about 2,000 feet above sea level.Their focus is on 4 grapes in particular,
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling and Moscato.The Moscato grape Carlo shared is the king grape of this particular area
in the Alta Langa.
Galliano family
The Alta Langa is an area of southern Piedmont known for
producing sparkling wines made in the traditional method style, known as the
traditional method, with the second fermentation taking place in the
bottle.This is the way in which Borgo
Maragliano produces their wines.Canelli,
a municipality in the Asti province of Piedmont, was the first in Italy to use this popular
methodology and experiment with it.Specifically
the producers, Carlo Gancia and Conterno, were influential in the beginnings of
using the classic style method.
Carlo explained how they use selected yeasts from France and
use organic practices in their
vineyards.Their soil is meager and poor
that gives great acidity to their wines allowing them to stay fresh and be
ageworthy.He discussed what he calls
the “pedoclima” as a major factor in the influences of their wines.This pedoclima is a combination of their altitude,
soils and climate.They have large
diurnal temperature swings of 23-24 degrees.
The wines
I'll share the wines I tasted in order of my personal
preference.Most of these wines are
named after members of the family.I
didn't find the bubbles to be too bright and bubbly, which for me was great
since I'm not a huge sparkling wine fan.
The 2018 Borgo Maragliano Dogma Blanc de Noirs Bruit Nature
Millesime is made from 100% Pinot Noir.The wine matured for 48 months on the yeast.They explained this vineyard as a difficult one
and Carlo chose the name “dogma” as a strong word to represent the passion and
determination to make these wines.Aromas of butter and vanilla along with some stone fruit.This wine was rounder on the palate and
fuller bodied than the others with a touch of salinity on the finish. SRP $72
The 2018 Borgo Maragliano Giuseppe Galliano Brut Nature
Millesime was the first sparkling wine they made in 1987 that is dedicated to Carlo's
father.They started making 1,400
bottles with the 1st vintage and today make about 8,000-9,000
bottles.Made from 80% Pinot Noir for
body and 20% Chardonnay for elegance from 35 year old vines.This wine spends 4 years in the bottle and
has 0% sugar.Yeasty aromas with a
slight toastiness.It's dry on the
palate with lemon pith and salinity on the finish. SRP $55
The Borgo MaraglianoGermana Beltrame Brut Nature
S.A. IV Editione is named after Carlo's mamma.Made from 100% Chardonnay from single
vineyards across 6 vintages between 2013 and 2018.This is their only non-vintage cuvee.Fresh apples with a slight buttery aroma with
soft bubbles on the palate. SRP $69
The 2019 Borgo Maragliano Federico Galiano Blanc de Blancs
Brut Alta Langa DOCG is made from 100% Riesling, a clone of the Rheingau.This is named after another of the sons.The soils of these vineyards are about 85-90%
limestone, which Carlo described as these wines showing an intensive mandarin
nose and producing a wine that is clean and direct.This wine did have intense aromas of petrol
and pear.The bubbles were small and
quickly dissipated. SRP $72
The 2019 Borgo Maragliano Francesco Galliano Blanc de
Blancs Brut Alta Langa DOCG is made from 100% Chardonnay named after their
2nd child.The grapes come
from a single vineyard planted in 1983.The soils contains 40% limestone, a white soil that absorbs the
water.This wine spends 34 months maturing
on the yeasts.This wine showed notes of
grapefruit pith showing a slight bitterness along with yellow flowers. SRP $50
Have you tried the sparkling wines of the Alta Langa?
*This wine was provided as a sample, but opinions are always my own.
This past week I had the pleasure of attending a webinar with Susannah of Vigneto Communications as she is an ambassador for the Oltrepo Pavese wine region of Lombardy. A group of wine writers shared in a large variety of wines from this region and I had the opportunity to try a few myself that I’m sharing with you today. What fantastic wines and information shared about this fascinating wine region. How many of you can say you are familiar with the Oltrepo Pavese wine region? If it’s not on your radar it’s time to get there and start to discover them.
The region ~ Oltrepo Pavese
The Oltrepo Pavese, pronounced “ol-tray-po pah-vay-say", translates to “the other side of the Po”, which is the longest river in Italy. You can find this wine region located about 25 miles outside of Milan. It’s a very hilly area, compared to Tuscany for its terrain and beauty. It consists of four valleys which form the shape of grape clusters from south to north including Valle Staffona, Valle Coppa, Valle Scuropasso and Valle Versa.
There is evidence of vines in this area since 1876 that were discovered in a fossilized vine trunk found near Casteggio. The Greek philosopher, Strabone, wrote of viticulture in this area as far back as 40 B.C. Sixty-two percent of the viticulture in Lombardy takes place in the Oltrepo Pavese with over 1,700 wineries covering almost 33,500 acres of land.
Copyright of Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepo Pavese
In 1884 this region grew 225+ grapes, but today have narrowed down the focus to 10 grape varietals with Pinot Nero leading the pack along with Barbera, Riesling and Croatina. There is also a lot of Pinot Grigio grown there as well. This area is located on the 45th parallel, the same parallel for great Pinot Noir coming from Oregon and Bordeaux. Pinot Nero has been grown here since the 1800’s and is the 3rd largest area in the world after Champagne and Burgundy. Croatina is the grape used in the Bonarda DOC found here, but is not the same as the Bonarda grape in Piedmont. Of course, we’re talking Italian wine so why should it be so easy to understand?!
When we’re looking at what factors affect the wines grown in a particular region we always look at the climate and geographical influences. The Oltrepo has Mediterranean influences comingfrom the Ligurian Sea to the south. To the west are continental influences that stem from the Po River and the mountains of Piedmont.
Copyright of Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepo Pavese
The Wines
It’s surprising to see Riesling in Italy, but with Germanic influences in northern Italy it’s no surprise this is where you would find it. You may see both Riesling Renano and Riesling Italico used, but it’s more common to see the German Riesling Renano used.
The 2020 La TravaglinaRugiade Riesling Oltrepo Pavese DOC was a brilliant straw color with a beautiful nose of stone fruit and pineapple. It seemed almost slightly frizzante upon first sip, which seemed to go away, but it had a mouthwatering acidity with crisp, tart, citrus and peach noes that finished with a tingling on the tongue. Our group had other versions of Riesling with a high amount of petrol commonly found on the palate, but with such diversity in terroir here you get to sample a variety of styles. La Travaglina started in the 1960’s and is named after the farm that is situated up on the hills of Santa Giuletta occupying over 80 acres of vineyards. ABV 12.5%
As mentioned previously that the Oltrepo has a long history with both Pinot Grigio in a still or frizzante style that can be used in its own DOC or via the Metodo Classico way. I sampled the 2021 VanziniOltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC. This family has been producing wine since 1890 and owns about 80 acres and utilizes another 80 acres owned by others. Their vineyards are spread aross 5 villages with vineyards that are about 400 meters above sea level. The 2021 Vanzini Pinot Grigio was very pale yellow in color with pretty aromatics of citrus and some tropical fruit. A very straightforward, everyday light-bodied Pinot Grigio that is soft and clean on the palate with apple and citrus notes.
After a couple whites we’re ending the wine tasting today with a dessert wine. This was a first for me for a wine known as Sangue di Giuda, the blood of Judas. Legend has it that after Judas’s death he regretted his actions towards Jesus and asked for repentance. He was resurrected and went to the village of Broni to save some of the vineyards there with a blood sacrifice, which was instructed by a local villager. Before he could sacrifice himself a force stopped him and the vineyards grew back into being fruitful and so the local villagers named the wine after him. Quite the graphic story if you ask me!
Sangue di Giuda is a sweet wine under it’s own DOC that has requirements of 25-65% Barbera, 25-65% Croatina and up to a maximum of 45% of Uva Rara, Ughetta and Pinot Nero. The 2021 Mon Carul Siliquastro Sangue di Giudadell’Oltrepo Pavese DOC is made frizzante as a semi-sweet sparkling wine. With 40% Croatina, 40% Barbera and 20% Uva Rara. An interesting dessert wine compared to others I have tried. Ruby in color with purple highlights. It smelled like grape jelly on the nose with some hints of raspberries. Very smooth on the palate with notes of baking spices.
How familiar are you with the wines of the Oltrepo Pavese?
*These wines were provided as samples, but opinions are always my own.
